Ed Viesturs: Physical vs. Mental Training

What's more important, physical or mental training?  Whittaker Mountaineering Guide Team member, Ed Viesturs talks about training for mountaineering physically vs. mentally. 

Anthony hits the beach!

Well, I made it back from the beach (had a blast!), so my training schedule was a little short this past week.  I still managed to get in three days at the gym and a short day hike on Saturday.  Unfortunately, I didn’t hold to my diet very well while I was at the beach and I feel a little (just a little) guilty about that.  The pizza, ice cream, French fries, and beer (lots of beer) were the worst of it, but hey, it’s the beach!  Overall, no harm done and I’m back on the plan (or wagon if you like).  I did get in a couple of long walks and a good run, but it was nothing structured so it doesn’t count as training.

The hike on Saturday was good; short, but intense.  The total distance (roundtrip) was only about 6 miles, but we gained over 1700 feet in the last 2 miles with a gnarly rock climb/scramble (steep!) in the final ½ mile or so.  I carried my pack with 55lbs in it and was able to move at a fairly fast pace, but I was huffing pretty hard by the time I reached the top.  The decent through the rock climb/scramble, with the pack on, was a little scary and a good workout in itself.  I was surprised at how much my core had to work to brace and balance the pack.  Good stuff.

My training plan going forward will stay the same for the most part.  I definitely want to get in some longer duration, perhaps overnight or full weekend, hikes in the near future.  It would also be nice to get in a conditioning climb with some altitude, but altitude is hard to come by on the east coast.

Allison Hits the Gym & YouTube

Wow, time is FLYING!!! Just 4 more weeks until our big climb and I am beginning to feel ready...I think. I have been going to the Y several times a week (carrying my big 30lb ruck sack) and stepping on the stair machine for about 60 minutes at the Intense Fat Burner interval level. I follow that with an amazing hour long YOGA class. For more endurance training, I have been trying to run once or twice a week if I can get away from the kids.

I continue to listen to the RMI Training Podcast on Altitude, quite interesting and I would recommend it to anyone planning on doing any activity where altitude is a factor. This past week, however, I have taken to watching a ton of videos on all things climbing related.

Myself, being a novice, I want to soak up as much information about crampons, ice axe use etc... so I have some idea what to expect prior to arriving in Ashford. My husband and I really enjoy watching the Whittaker Mountaineering videos on YouTube.

The weather here in the Puget Sound this past weekend was YUCK.

Reminds me of mid October weather but a bit warmer. I am crossing my fingers that our climbing weather will be perfect. Here's to hoping :)

Anthony gets out on a hike!

This past week was a pretty full training week for me.  I managed to get in a good hike over the weekend.  Total distance was about 15 miles.  I carried 50lb in my pack and I'm not sure what the exact elevation gain was, but there was a lot of up-hill work.  I quickly realized that I wasn't carrying enough water and suffered for a long piece of the hike.  I later found out that the heat index was over 100 degrees that day.  I managed to finish okay, albeit with a very dry mouth and five pounds lighter (161.8lbs prior to leaving and 156.2lbs when I got home).  Not an ideal job of planning on my part, but lesson learned.

We had intended to do a two day overnight trip, but ended up boating with friends (lots of fun) on Saturday, so I had to fit the hiking in on Sunday.  The rest of the week was filled with the usual weights and cardio.  For weightlifting, I use a fairly comprehensive routine.  My leg work focuses on 4 sets of 15 reps or 5 sets of 10 reps.  I don't usually work with rep ranges higher than 15, maybe I should, but so far I haven't.  The usual exercises like squats, lunges (usually dynamic), stiff leg dead-lifts, leg extensions and leg curls are the staples of my leg work.  Although, I recently did some hack squats (4 sets of 15 reps) that absolutely hammered my thighs.

I picked up a really good DVD called “Train To Climb Mt. Rainier” produced by Body Results Inc.  There was some really good information on it.  It lays out a very nice training program and provides some really nice benchmarks to train toward.  I would definitely recommend it for those new to training for climbing (like myself).  I also took the time to review the three training pod-casts put out by RMI Expeditions.  These are also filled with very interesting information.  Definitely worth taking the time to listen to.

We are heading to the beach for a couple of days this coming week so training will be put on hold.  I'm going to shoot for some active rest; morning runs, stretching and some body-weight calisthenics.  Honestly, so long as I don't eat too badly, the rest will do me good.

Less than a week for Lindsay...

Yikes...less than a week away until my climb of Rainier and I have to admit I am a little anxious to find out if the training has prepared me enough for the climb. This week has been pretty low key with only one resistance workout, a couple 20 km bike rides, and some swimming. I have been trying to taper down my workouts in preparation for the climb like I would do if I was getting ready for a road race or triathlon. I wouldn’t say that I have been carb-loading as I don’t necessarily have a specific formula to follow, but I have certainly been trying to make sure I am not dehydrated in the days leading up to the climb. I have been drinking at least 2 litres of water each day and compensating when I work out. If you haven’t seen the videos that have been posted on Whittaker Mountaineering’s website, I would highly recommend it. The video of the climb to the summit of Rainier on July 16th really helped me get mentally prepared for the climb. I can’t believe there is so much snow, but at least I am going to be prepared for it. It gave some insight into what I can expect, like going to bed at 6 pm (really?) and setting out for the summit in the dark. I find the more information I know about the climbing conditions and itinerary, the better I can handle not so favourable situations...like the wind. I hate wind, but knowing that there is a likely chance there will be lots of it, makes the idea a little more bearable. I have been reading a lot of updates on Facebook that the weather has been really good up on the summit so I am hoping the good weather stays around for my climb. My husband and I are heading to Seattle Friday and will head down to Ashford on Sunday to begin our adventure...can’t wait for the experience to begin!

Be sure to check out the latest Route Condition video from Whittaker Mountaineering owner, Peter Whittaker's latest climb, July 28th.

David's Final Entry

July 28, 2010

Friday morning, about 10:30 AM. I check my gear one final time and load it into the car. I turn on the GPS system, directed it to Whittaker’s Bunkhouse in Ashford and set off.

Orientation at the meeting house started at 3:00. We got acquainted with our fellow team members, checked through our gear to make sure we had all that we’d need, and the guide went over the game plan for the next few days.

I checked into my room, then wandered around trying to find a phone signal. It took a while, but I finally got one near the left rear bumper of my car. I called home to let Sylvia know how things were going.

Saturday morning… the team met up outside the meeting house. We loaded into a shuttle and made the 45 minute drive up to Paradise. We spent the day up on the mountain training for the climb; learned all about ice arrest, how to rope up and travel roped, how to use crampons, and a lot more. It was a great day of training and a great workout.

Saturday evening, sitting near the back bumper of my car, carefully holding my cell phone in just the right position to keep a signal… There was a problem at home, a family crisis. After doing what I could long distance (pretty much nothing), I hung up and hoped for the best. A few hours later, one of the hotel staff knocked on my door with a message to call home (no phones in the rooms). I went looking for a signal. When I finally connected, things were worse…

Sunday morning before I met with the rest of the team to start the climb, I called home again. Looked like I was going home… no mountain today. I stood outside the gear rental shop until it opened and turned in those items that I had chosen to rent rather than buy. I left word for my guide, got into my car, and started home.

It was devastating. I was crushed. After two years of planning, after seven months of training, I was headed home. This climb was for my son, a young soldier injured so horribly in the war, and I was going home without completing the mission. And I was ready… so damned ready…

Well I’m not finished. As soon as this all gets sorted out, I’m going back to the mountain. 

 

Caroline George's Nutrition Tips

Whittaker Mountaineering Guide Team member, Caroline George's advice on nutrition for alpine adventures...

Nutrition: eat healthy! If you eat well and enough, you will be ready for a climb. I don't usually eat more than usual the night before a climb because it would prevent me from sleeping well. I eat normally the days before a climb too. What matters is that while you are climbing, you are snacking regularly. I always keep food accessible in my pockets so that I can eat something quickly at each break. On a climb, I usually eat nuts and dry fruits, because they are high in calories and I therefore don't need to carry too much with me. It's a great weight/calories ratio. 

Personally, I try to eat a lot of protein, fruits, vegetables, goat cheese and nuts. These seem to be the food that make me feel and perform the best. That being said, we all have different body types and it's important to figure out what works best for you.