Log as many miles running or biking as you want, but skip training with a pack and you will risk being unprepared for your climb. People might want to forgo this type of training for a number of reasons. Sometimes you may not have access to a pack, especially if you plan on renting one. Also, people can get embarrassed at the thought of hiking around town with a weighted pack, or feel even sillier strapping on the pack to spend time on the elliptical at the gym.
It's very simple though. No other exercise or training will prepare you quite like hiking up some hills with a loaded pack. You will become comfortable with the level of exertion that hiking up steep terrain with a pack requires, as well as developing the same muscles that you will use extensively on your climb.
The key to training with a pack is to start with light to moderate weight and gradually increase as your training regime progresses. Gradually working up to what your pack will weight during your expedition will insure that you avoid injury. A favorite tip about training with a pack, is to use water bottles to create a lot of the weight of your pack. That way, if it gets a little heavy, or you want to reduce the weight on the descent, its as simple as pouring out some water on the trail.
Training with a pack also lets you assess your pack's fit and performance. Is it the right size? Are there any problems adjusting it? Does it fit all of my equipment inside? Are all questions that can be answered during a training hike. If you are planning to rent your pack, I highly suggest borrowing a pack from a friend to train, or at the very least, loading up the biggest backpack you have to attain some of the advantages of training with a loaded pack.
Short on hilly trails in your area? There are other ways you can train with a pack that don't require a hill. Climbing stairs with a pack will offer some of the same benefits of strengthening quads and calves. I would recommend reducing weight climbing down stairs, as going down stairs is more jarring on the knees than walking down hill. Leg presses and squats are also good to do with your pack. For leg presses, find a tall stair or two or a low bench. Press up to stand on the bench with one leg, then bring the other leg up to meet it. Step down and repeat on the other side. Keep increasing weight and repetitions as you progress through your training.
Overall, if you can aim for at least one long training hike per week with a loaded pack (even better if you can find some place with a little elevation gain) you will be working the muscles you need to help get you to the top.
Monday, November 17, 2008
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Let it snow! Incorporating Winter Activities Into Your Training.
Nothing is more discouraging than having an established training routine only to have it disrupted by Mother Nature. It's so easy to hit the snooze button instead of waking up for that morning run when it's darker, colder, and perhaps snowier than when you began your regimen. What the winter can do however, is force us out of our comfort zones and try new activities. This will benefit your training program by reducing boredom, and training new muscle groups.
For those that live in regions where snow is prevalent, the possibilities are endless. This will be my first winter living where there is ample white stuff to play around in. Being a southern girl I did not grow up doing the family ski trip or participating in any winter sports. This year I am so excited to try all of these new activities.
Cross-Country Skiing
Remember Nordic Track? That cumbersome exercise machine from the 80's that seemed to be in every fitness enthusiasts spare bedroom? The idea behind it was to capitalize on the vast benefits of cross-country skiing all without having to go outside in the cold. XC Skiing is one of the most difficult endurance sports, utilizing every one of the major muscle groups. It also (along with running, swimming, and rowing) burns the most calories per hour of any sport--making it the perfect way to train for mountaineering. While many areas have hut systems with groomed trails, I've even seen people XC skiing on snowy running trails in cities like Boston and Milwaukee, making it a feasible undertaking anywhere there is a little white on the ground. Many shops (like ours...wink, wink) rent XC Ski packages to allow infrequent users or beginners to experience the sport using quality equipment without making a huge investment.
Be prepared to go only a short distance your first time out. The first time can mean a few falls while you are getting your "ski legs". But the benefits of this sport are so vast, that gliding along a snowy path while enjoying the quiet of the winter woods might just be a new way you decide to wait out the winter.
Snowshoeing
Snowshoeing is another great way to engage the whole body in a workout and continue a running or hiking routine when the trails become snow covered. Snowshoes help increase flotation across soft snow. Snowshoes are also widely used in the mountaineering world, so learning how to snowshoe or investing a pair of your own might be a great way to prepare for your climb. For tips on purchasing your first pair, or help learning about the different products available, call us at the shop.
If you can walk, you can snowshoe. Refining your snowshoeing technique to avoid exhausting yourself will be necessary, but in general snowshoes are very easy to use. Use snowshoes to hike your normal trails that have become buried in powder, or use them to access the backcountry to explore new terrain on your skis or snowboard.
One of the coolest things I have come across are new snowshoes designed specifically for running. Combined with a pair of Gore-Tex trail runners, racing snowshoes allow you to run safely across snowy trails with ease. There are also quite a few races out there for those who want to stay competitive while waiting for the spring race season to start up.
The training benefits of snowshoeing are the same as running or hiking. Snowshoeing provides excellent aerobic conditioning. Add a pack with some weight in it, and you can keep up your weekly mileage no matter what the weather brings.
Downhill Skiing and Snowboarding
Aside from being totally fun, downhill skiing and snowboarding are great for strength training. Up the ante by skinning or snowshoeing up to your destination, but even if you take the lift, the ability to maneuver on skis or a snowboard requires tons of balance, core and leg strength and coordination. It will also help improve your anaerobic threshold, often requiring you to emit short bursts of energy while heading downhill.
Ice Skating
Most larger metropolitan areas have an indoor or outdoor rink to lace up some skates, and tap into our inner child. Ice skating, like running, is a great lower body workout. Make a few laps around the rink at a decent pace, and you will start to feel that heart rate rise. Ice skating is also low impact, so it gives your knees a break from running.
Tips for Success
Dressing appropriately for a winter activity is key for enjoyment. We here at Whittaker Mountaineering have a lot of experience dressing for all types of conditions. Feel free to give us a call and we can help you select not only the clothing for your upcoming climb, but clothing that will make your training more comfortable and enjoyable. There have been tons of advances in fabrics that allow us to play outside for long periods.
Softshell fabrics are great for winter aerobic activities because they breathe much better than waterproof fabrics, but are still highly water resistant--making them a great choice for the snow. Softshell is also stretchier than waterproof fabrics, and move with you making them more comfortable. They also come in a wide variety of weights. I prefer lighte rweight softshells for high aerobic activities like XC skiing, The Mountain Hardwear Tanglewood Jacket or the Mammut Ultimate Hoody are both light weight, extremely breathable, and water resistant.
Also, its very important in colder temps to eat and drink frequently. This will fuel your body to help keep you warm when the mercury drops, in addition to fueling your performance. Pack lots of high calorie snacks and water when venturing out in the snow.
Remember, while mountaineering is our specialty, we have the clothing and equipment to help you get through the training portion of your exciting adventure to climb Mt. Rainier. We are always happy to help you with your questions throughout the whole process. So don't hesitate to call. So bundle up, and get outside. You may just find a new sport that will carry you through a lifetime of fitness.

For those that live in regions where snow is prevalent, the possibilities are endless. This will be my first winter living where there is ample white stuff to play around in. Being a southern girl I did not grow up doing the family ski trip or participating in any winter sports. This year I am so excited to try all of these new activities.
Cross-Country Skiing
Remember Nordic Track? That cumbersome exercise machine from the 80's that seemed to be in every fitness enthusiasts spare bedroom? The idea behind it was to capitalize on the vast benefits of cross-country skiing all without having to go outside in the cold. XC Skiing is one of the most difficult endurance sports, utilizing every one of the major muscle groups. It also (along with running, swimming, and rowing) burns the most calories per hour of any sport--making it the perfect way to train for mountaineering. While many areas have hut systems with groomed trails, I've even seen people XC skiing on snowy running trails in cities like Boston and Milwaukee, making it a feasible undertaking anywhere there is a little white on the ground. Many shops (like ours...wink, wink) rent XC Ski packages to allow infrequent users or beginners to experience the sport using quality equipment without making a huge investment.
Be prepared to go only a short distance your first time out. The first time can mean a few falls while you are getting your "ski legs". But the benefits of this sport are so vast, that gliding along a snowy path while enjoying the quiet of the winter woods might just be a new way you decide to wait out the winter.
Snowshoeing
Snowshoeing is another great way to engage the whole body in a workout and continue a running or hiking routine when the trails become snow covered. Snowshoes help increase flotation across soft snow. Snowshoes are also widely used in the mountaineering world, so learning how to snowshoe or investing a pair of your own might be a great way to prepare for your climb. For tips on purchasing your first pair, or help learning about the different products available, call us at the shop.
If you can walk, you can snowshoe. Refining your snowshoeing technique to avoid exhausting yourself will be necessary, but in general snowshoes are very easy to use. Use snowshoes to hike your normal trails that have become buried in powder, or use them to access the backcountry to explore new terrain on your skis or snowboard.
One of the coolest things I have come across are new snowshoes designed specifically for running. Combined with a pair of Gore-Tex trail runners, racing snowshoes allow you to run safely across snowy trails with ease. There are also quite a few races out there for those who want to stay competitive while waiting for the spring race season to start up.
The training benefits of snowshoeing are the same as running or hiking. Snowshoeing provides excellent aerobic conditioning. Add a pack with some weight in it, and you can keep up your weekly mileage no matter what the weather brings.
Downhill Skiing and Snowboarding
Aside from being totally fun, downhill skiing and snowboarding are great for strength training. Up the ante by skinning or snowshoeing up to your destination, but even if you take the lift, the ability to maneuver on skis or a snowboard requires tons of balance, core and leg strength and coordination. It will also help improve your anaerobic threshold, often requiring you to emit short bursts of energy while heading downhill.
Ice Skating
Most larger metropolitan areas have an indoor or outdoor rink to lace up some skates, and tap into our inner child. Ice skating, like running, is a great lower body workout. Make a few laps around the rink at a decent pace, and you will start to feel that heart rate rise. Ice skating is also low impact, so it gives your knees a break from running.
Tips for Success
Dressing appropriately for a winter activity is key for enjoyment. We here at Whittaker Mountaineering have a lot of experience dressing for all types of conditions. Feel free to give us a call and we can help you select not only the clothing for your upcoming climb, but clothing that will make your training more comfortable and enjoyable. There have been tons of advances in fabrics that allow us to play outside for long periods.
Softshell fabrics are great for winter aerobic activities because they breathe much better than waterproof fabrics, but are still highly water resistant--making them a great choice for the snow. Softshell is also stretchier than waterproof fabrics, and move with you making them more comfortable. They also come in a wide variety of weights. I prefer lighte rweight softshells for high aerobic activities like XC skiing, The Mountain Hardwear Tanglewood Jacket or the Mammut Ultimate Hoody are both light weight, extremely breathable, and water resistant.
Also, its very important in colder temps to eat and drink frequently. This will fuel your body to help keep you warm when the mercury drops, in addition to fueling your performance. Pack lots of high calorie snacks and water when venturing out in the snow.
Remember, while mountaineering is our specialty, we have the clothing and equipment to help you get through the training portion of your exciting adventure to climb Mt. Rainier. We are always happy to help you with your questions throughout the whole process. So don't hesitate to call. So bundle up, and get outside. You may just find a new sport that will carry you through a lifetime of fitness.

Sunday, November 2, 2008
Building up Cardio
Having a high level of cardiovascular fitness is essential to mountaineering. Basically, cardiovascular fitness can be defined as how efficient your body's organs are at consuming, transporting, and utilizing oxygen. The maximum volume of oxygen your body can consume and use is your VO2 Max. Everyone's VO2 max is from the outset determined by genetics. But VO2 max can be increased through training. Interestingly, altitude lowers a person's VO2 max due to a reduction in available oxygen in the atmosphere, making it even more important for those interested in climbing high altitude peaks to train to increase their VO2 max threshold. The only way to do this is by incorporating "cardio" into your training routine.
Ultimately in order to climb efficiently, you should be able to sustain a moderate level of intensity for at least an hour. If you already run, bike, or XC Ski and can sustain an hour or more of activity, then congratulations! Your goals should be to increase speed and strength in preparation for your climb.
But if you're like most, and hour of aerobic activity can seem like an eternity. Below are some tips for building up cardio as you go along. The important thing to remember is that committing to a routine will put you in the best position to reach your fitness goals.
When I began training for Mt. Rainier last December I decided on running. Running is inexpensive, and can happen anywhere. Some tips for running include investing in some great shoes (a specialty running store like Fleet Feet will be able to assess your needs and get you in a great shoe), and run on soft surfaces i.e. asphalt as opposed to concrete, or trails or dirt roads to minimize injury from impact.
Begin with 10-15 minutes of warm up. I start out walking at a brisk pace or jogging very slowly. Once you feel that the blood is pumping and the muscles are warm get into a stride that has you increasing speed, but at a pace where you can still carry on a conversation. Intersperse your running with walking in order to keep exercising for a full 30 minutes (not including a warmup). Depending on your fitness this may mean 30 sec. of running and a full minute of walking. The important thing in the beginning of building up your cardio is not speed or distance but endurance. The longer you can keep training the better, even if you are walking more than half the time. As weeks progress, you can begin to lengthen your running intervals and workout sessions. For me it takes about three weeks of a consecutive running program before I feel I can start to feel it getting a little easier. So hang in there...but this can be different for everyone. Before you know it, running for thirty minutes without stopping will be a breeze.
To make the leap from thirty minutes to an hour, follow the same steps as before, setting small goals and increasing the duration of your intervals and workouts as the weeks tick by. Once your aerobic capacity has increased, then you can begin work on your anaerobic threshold. Anaerobic simply means without oxygen. Anaerobic training means incorporating short bursts in your workout that exhaust your threshold to intake and use oxygen. Incorporating sprints, sudden steep inclines, or exertion during your workout will allow you to train anaerobically. Over time this type of training will help build your overall aerobic threshold, allowing you to work harder for longer.
To add variety to your workout, you can include other types of aerobic activities that help increase your cardiovascular fitness like biking, xc skiing, swimming, or a class at a gym. Cross training will reduce boredom with a routine and make sure you constantly are improving. And know that every time you feel a little out of breath and are busting a sweat, you are getting yourself that much closer to being in prime condition to climb that peak.
Resources:
Neat Article on High Altitude Training
About.com intro to Cardio Training
Ultimately in order to climb efficiently, you should be able to sustain a moderate level of intensity for at least an hour. If you already run, bike, or XC Ski and can sustain an hour or more of activity, then congratulations! Your goals should be to increase speed and strength in preparation for your climb.
But if you're like most, and hour of aerobic activity can seem like an eternity. Below are some tips for building up cardio as you go along. The important thing to remember is that committing to a routine will put you in the best position to reach your fitness goals.
When I began training for Mt. Rainier last December I decided on running. Running is inexpensive, and can happen anywhere. Some tips for running include investing in some great shoes (a specialty running store like Fleet Feet will be able to assess your needs and get you in a great shoe), and run on soft surfaces i.e. asphalt as opposed to concrete, or trails or dirt roads to minimize injury from impact.
Begin with 10-15 minutes of warm up. I start out walking at a brisk pace or jogging very slowly. Once you feel that the blood is pumping and the muscles are warm get into a stride that has you increasing speed, but at a pace where you can still carry on a conversation. Intersperse your running with walking in order to keep exercising for a full 30 minutes (not including a warmup). Depending on your fitness this may mean 30 sec. of running and a full minute of walking. The important thing in the beginning of building up your cardio is not speed or distance but endurance. The longer you can keep training the better, even if you are walking more than half the time. As weeks progress, you can begin to lengthen your running intervals and workout sessions. For me it takes about three weeks of a consecutive running program before I feel I can start to feel it getting a little easier. So hang in there...but this can be different for everyone. Before you know it, running for thirty minutes without stopping will be a breeze.
To make the leap from thirty minutes to an hour, follow the same steps as before, setting small goals and increasing the duration of your intervals and workouts as the weeks tick by. Once your aerobic capacity has increased, then you can begin work on your anaerobic threshold. Anaerobic simply means without oxygen. Anaerobic training means incorporating short bursts in your workout that exhaust your threshold to intake and use oxygen. Incorporating sprints, sudden steep inclines, or exertion during your workout will allow you to train anaerobically. Over time this type of training will help build your overall aerobic threshold, allowing you to work harder for longer.
To add variety to your workout, you can include other types of aerobic activities that help increase your cardiovascular fitness like biking, xc skiing, swimming, or a class at a gym. Cross training will reduce boredom with a routine and make sure you constantly are improving. And know that every time you feel a little out of breath and are busting a sweat, you are getting yourself that much closer to being in prime condition to climb that peak.
Resources:
Neat Article on High Altitude Training
About.com intro to Cardio Training
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Developing A Training Regimen
Mountaineering requires a level of fitness most of us don't have right off the couch. If you've made the commitment and investment to sign up for a mountaineering expedition, you owe it to yourself, your guides, and the others on your climb to be in peak physical condition so that the climb can be more successful, safe, and enjoyable.
Right now we are about 7 months out from when the main climbing season begins on Denali and Rainier...which luckily is about the amount of time most fitness experts recommend training before attempting a new activity like mountaineering. Now that time is on your side, coming up with a training regimen that is viable, effective, and fun will give you the structure you need to achieve your fitness goals.
Climbing a mountain is serious business, and your training schedule should reflect that. One of the places that I falter, and see others do the same, is when we let everything else in our lives take priority over training. This is easy to do when you might be the only one in your family or circle of friends attempting a feat like climbing a mountain. But getting into a habit of exercise and following a routine will be your best defense against letting all things trump your training. That being said, having a routine that allows for some flexibility will keep you from feeling resentful about your time spent training, and will help you stay motivated.
When at all possible, a training regimen should have you participating in the activity you are training for. Marathon runners train by running, cyclists train by cycling. Climbers should train by climbing. This means that the more you can find yourself in steep terrain (i.e. hills, stairs) wearing a pack, the more you will be training the muscle groups you will be recruiting from for your climb. The luxury of starting to train early though, means that you can ease into the steep hikes with a full pack.
Conditioning Needs for Mountaineering
Every sport has its own needs as far as training. Some sports require that you acquire more flexibility than speed, or more stamina than strength. Determining what the needs are of your sport first will make sure that your training regimen is focused and successful. The following diagram points out the conditioning needs of mountaineering.
Aim for activities that emphasize cardiovascular fitness and strength endurance. A great example of this is climbing steep terrain with a pack (see, its not a ploy). Really any activity that can get you "huffing and puffing" and "feeling the burn" will do. In the beginning this may look differently than you imagine. In the beginning "huffing and puffing" and "feeling the burn" may be achieved with a jog around the block or a short hike with no pack. The important thing is to start slow and stick to a routine. Build each week by lengthening hikes or runs, and eventually adding a pack with some weight.
Another great way to increase stamina is to incorporate intervals into your training. These help max out your anaerobic threshold allowing your body to learn how to do more with less. Break up a long run by adding some sprints. Or while you are on that long hike, find something in the distance and increase your pace until you reach that object.
Strength training for mountaineering can be a time to step out of the box, and get out of the gym. Weight machines tend to not be as effective as building the smaller muscle groups that are important to providing stability when descending a big mountain. We recommend incorporating different types of isometrics like lunges and squats to tone the muscle groups you will need for climbing when strength training.
So where is the training schedule? I have purposefully left that up to you. Creating a personalized schedule is part of the fun of training, and will give you an ownership of your training that I think helps with commitment and increasing will power. I could tell you to strength train on Tuesdays, hike on Saturdays, and rest on Sundays...but what if that doesn't work for you? The most important part of any training schedule is how easy it is to stick to, so get out the calendar and start planning! You have 7 months to get in the best shape of your life, while achieving one of the most rewarding, awesome goals--climbing a mountain.
Here are some resources to help you along the way:
RMI's Letter on Training
Article on Training by Kathy Colsey-Mountain Guide



Body Results DVD

Climbing: Training for Peak Performance

Conditioning for Outdoor Fitness
Right now we are about 7 months out from when the main climbing season begins on Denali and Rainier...which luckily is about the amount of time most fitness experts recommend training before attempting a new activity like mountaineering. Now that time is on your side, coming up with a training regimen that is viable, effective, and fun will give you the structure you need to achieve your fitness goals.
Climbing a mountain is serious business, and your training schedule should reflect that. One of the places that I falter, and see others do the same, is when we let everything else in our lives take priority over training. This is easy to do when you might be the only one in your family or circle of friends attempting a feat like climbing a mountain. But getting into a habit of exercise and following a routine will be your best defense against letting all things trump your training. That being said, having a routine that allows for some flexibility will keep you from feeling resentful about your time spent training, and will help you stay motivated.
When at all possible, a training regimen should have you participating in the activity you are training for. Marathon runners train by running, cyclists train by cycling. Climbers should train by climbing. This means that the more you can find yourself in steep terrain (i.e. hills, stairs) wearing a pack, the more you will be training the muscle groups you will be recruiting from for your climb. The luxury of starting to train early though, means that you can ease into the steep hikes with a full pack.
Conditioning Needs for Mountaineering
Every sport has its own needs as far as training. Some sports require that you acquire more flexibility than speed, or more stamina than strength. Determining what the needs are of your sport first will make sure that your training regimen is focused and successful. The following diagram points out the conditioning needs of mountaineering.
Aim for activities that emphasize cardiovascular fitness and strength endurance. A great example of this is climbing steep terrain with a pack (see, its not a ploy). Really any activity that can get you "huffing and puffing" and "feeling the burn" will do. In the beginning this may look differently than you imagine. In the beginning "huffing and puffing" and "feeling the burn" may be achieved with a jog around the block or a short hike with no pack. The important thing is to start slow and stick to a routine. Build each week by lengthening hikes or runs, and eventually adding a pack with some weight.Another great way to increase stamina is to incorporate intervals into your training. These help max out your anaerobic threshold allowing your body to learn how to do more with less. Break up a long run by adding some sprints. Or while you are on that long hike, find something in the distance and increase your pace until you reach that object.
Strength training for mountaineering can be a time to step out of the box, and get out of the gym. Weight machines tend to not be as effective as building the smaller muscle groups that are important to providing stability when descending a big mountain. We recommend incorporating different types of isometrics like lunges and squats to tone the muscle groups you will need for climbing when strength training.
So where is the training schedule? I have purposefully left that up to you. Creating a personalized schedule is part of the fun of training, and will give you an ownership of your training that I think helps with commitment and increasing will power. I could tell you to strength train on Tuesdays, hike on Saturdays, and rest on Sundays...but what if that doesn't work for you? The most important part of any training schedule is how easy it is to stick to, so get out the calendar and start planning! You have 7 months to get in the best shape of your life, while achieving one of the most rewarding, awesome goals--climbing a mountain.
Here are some resources to help you along the way:
RMI's Letter on Training
Article on Training by Kathy Colsey-Mountain Guide



Body Results DVD

Climbing: Training for Peak Performance

Conditioning for Outdoor Fitness
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Training While Sick. Good idea?
Remember sick days as a child? Mom would call into the school secretary and you would spend the day holed up on the couch watching movies and eating soup. Funny how now as adults we don't take the same cues from our body and allow ourselves a day of rest. Most of our jobs or daily routines don't allow for it even.
But what about your training routine? What modifications (if any) should you make when plagued with illness. As I write this I am currently on day 6 of one of the nastiest colds I have been dealt in a long time. The fever has subsided only to be replaced by conjunctivitis in both eyes (pleasant I know). I am a member of the walking dead, drinking my weight in tea, and dosing on cold meds to stay afloat. Not exactly the shape I hoped to be in just a few short weeks away from a scheduled summit climb. It has been over a week since my feet hit the trail. My only exercise has been walking around Salt Lake City at a trade show over the weekend to keep up with coworkers as we made the trek from the hotel to the convention center. It hurts to read, talk, or generally stand for long periods of time. So what now?
A little internet scouring led me to discover a lot of different types of athletes saying pretty much the same thing. Whether you are a tri-athlete, a marathon runner, or bodybuilder, the general rule seems to be REST. Letting your body's immune system do its thing is the best thing you can do for your body and training. One quote from Dr. Stephen Cheung on the Pez Cycling site really sums it up: "it’s always better to be under-trained and healthy than over-trained but sick!"
Another general guideline that came up was to follow the "neck rule." If the symptoms are primarily above the neck, i.e. nasal congestion then it's okay to train. If symptoms reside below the neck such as fever, body aches, chest congestion, or stomach problems, it's best to take time off to recover.
The main thing is to not let some time off for illness discourage you from reaching your goals. Trust the base you have built with your pre-illness training, and use this time to do other things to prepare for your climb. Scour a climbing guide for info on the route, read trip reports online, or shop for the latest gear!
But what about your training routine? What modifications (if any) should you make when plagued with illness. As I write this I am currently on day 6 of one of the nastiest colds I have been dealt in a long time. The fever has subsided only to be replaced by conjunctivitis in both eyes (pleasant I know). I am a member of the walking dead, drinking my weight in tea, and dosing on cold meds to stay afloat. Not exactly the shape I hoped to be in just a few short weeks away from a scheduled summit climb. It has been over a week since my feet hit the trail. My only exercise has been walking around Salt Lake City at a trade show over the weekend to keep up with coworkers as we made the trek from the hotel to the convention center. It hurts to read, talk, or generally stand for long periods of time. So what now?
A little internet scouring led me to discover a lot of different types of athletes saying pretty much the same thing. Whether you are a tri-athlete, a marathon runner, or bodybuilder, the general rule seems to be REST. Letting your body's immune system do its thing is the best thing you can do for your body and training. One quote from Dr. Stephen Cheung on the Pez Cycling site really sums it up: "it’s always better to be under-trained and healthy than over-trained but sick!"
Another general guideline that came up was to follow the "neck rule." If the symptoms are primarily above the neck, i.e. nasal congestion then it's okay to train. If symptoms reside below the neck such as fever, body aches, chest congestion, or stomach problems, it's best to take time off to recover.
The main thing is to not let some time off for illness discourage you from reaching your goals. Trust the base you have built with your pre-illness training, and use this time to do other things to prepare for your climb. Scour a climbing guide for info on the route, read trip reports online, or shop for the latest gear!
Friday, August 1, 2008
How to Train Mentally
I recently made my first summit of Mt. Rainier. It was really gratifying to see how all of my training paid off. At high break I remember being surprised at how comfortable and energized I felt. On the hike down I got into an interesting conversation with one of my fellow climbers and another guide. We were discussing common reasons people choose to end their summit bid and descend. We all agreed that while there are many reasons someone might reach their limit, many of them could be alleviated with a little mental training. A lot goes on while on the mountain. Your body is fighting the altitude, the exertion, and most importantly the stress of doing something new which can be scary at times. It was this last part of the climb where I knew I had a distinct advantage. Living in Ashford, and working closely with RMI, the Mountain is always the main topic of conversation. People are always discussing route condition, current hazards, and weather patterns. Over the past few months, I have become acutely aware of what goes on up there, before I had ever set foot above 10,000 feet.
Physical training is an important part of preparing for your climb. Building endurance and muscle tone are key to insuring your body can withstand the stress of mountain climbing. But it was the mental preparedness that I felt gave me the ability to withstand some of the moments that were "less than comfortable." Knowing what to expect allowed me to focus less on the big task of climbing the mountain (or the crevasses!), and spend my energy insuring I was using proper crampon technique and breathing correctly.
Reading climbing guides and trip reports will help you understand the route and have an idea of what to expect. Scheduling some time to speak with someone at your guide service to answer any questions will also prove helpful. Becoming more knowledgeable about the sport of mountaineering can make all of the finer points of rope travel and self arrest make more sense. The idea of mental training is to eliminate as much of the unknown as possible so that your mind can be more at ease with this new challenge you are undertaking.
Here are some suggestions of resources I used to prepare me for my climb.
Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills

Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide by Mike Gauthier

Alpine Mountaineering DVD
Physical training is an important part of preparing for your climb. Building endurance and muscle tone are key to insuring your body can withstand the stress of mountain climbing. But it was the mental preparedness that I felt gave me the ability to withstand some of the moments that were "less than comfortable." Knowing what to expect allowed me to focus less on the big task of climbing the mountain (or the crevasses!), and spend my energy insuring I was using proper crampon technique and breathing correctly.
Reading climbing guides and trip reports will help you understand the route and have an idea of what to expect. Scheduling some time to speak with someone at your guide service to answer any questions will also prove helpful. Becoming more knowledgeable about the sport of mountaineering can make all of the finer points of rope travel and self arrest make more sense. The idea of mental training is to eliminate as much of the unknown as possible so that your mind can be more at ease with this new challenge you are undertaking.
Here are some suggestions of resources I used to prepare me for my climb.
Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills
Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide by Mike Gauthier
Alpine Mountaineering DVD
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Motivation
Sticking to a training plan is a challenge that everyone must conquer in order to achieve their fitness goals. But figuring out how to stay motivated can at times prove to be more challenging than the climb itself.
After years of stop and start exercise plans, when I found out I was going to climb Mt. Rainier, I knew I had to make a mental shift in order to see bigger and better results than I had in the past. There are ton of articles out there that speak to this topic, but sometimes the suggestions seem to add more work to an already full training plan. Here are some things that have really helped me stay motivated while I have been training.
At first it was easy to hit the gym or the trails. The excitement surrounding my decision to climb (which was coupled with the excitement of accepting my current position with Whittaker Mountaineering) made my workouts fun and exciting. Hopefully this excitement stays with you right up until your climb, but if it doesn't try these tricks to stay on the ball.
1. Have someone to hold you accountable. You can do this a couple of ways. Have a workout partner that you meet a few times a week. Or have someone that you report your progress to. I have a few friends that are serious runners, so when I started to get serious about the sport they loved hearing about my progress, and they had great advice when I would hit a wall. I also advertise pretty heavily when I am trying to develop good habits, because then it becomes one of the first things coworkers, friends, family ask you about. And when you are getting asked "How's your training going?" a few times a day, you want to have something good to report.
2. Get Creative with your Workout. Run the same route for four months and you will surely burn out. I try to run something different each time I go out. Here in Ashford, I am fortunate to have miles of trails right out of my door step. But for a change of pace, I ran on the road today. I also find ways to keep me upbeat when the going gets tough. On a recent hill workout I played cheesy pop music to help me sprint the switchbacks. On my long training hikes I listen to audiobooks.
3. Compete. Maybe its running you regular 5 mile loop five minutes faster. Or entering a local race. I like to find someone who runs faster than me, and push myself to keep up. Setting mini-goals will allow you to feel successful while on your path to the top. There is no rule that says you have to wait until you climb in order to reap the benefits of your training.
4. Take a week off. Counter intuitive? Sure. But it really works. I spent a whole week feeling pretty sluggish on my runs. I had no interest in strength training. Forget push ups. I was burnt out. So I took a whole week and didn't train at all. Sure I got outside, that's just my nature. But I didn't run once. And by the end of the week I was itching to get back out on the trails, and sure enough I had one of my best runs ever. Ear to ear grin the whole time and I ran harder than before the break.
5. Visualize the Mountain. One of the things that helps me on long runs or hike is to think about the mountain. I visualize myself succeeding because of the hard work I am putting into it now. I'm lucky that I get to see my peak pretty often living in Ashford. But if I didn't, I would put a picture of the mountain on my bathroom mirror or the fridge. Somewhere where I can see it everyday, and daydream about what the views will be like standing on top.
Liz is the Retail Manager for Whittaker Mountaineering, and will make her first attempt for the summit of Mt. Rainier this week.
After years of stop and start exercise plans, when I found out I was going to climb Mt. Rainier, I knew I had to make a mental shift in order to see bigger and better results than I had in the past. There are ton of articles out there that speak to this topic, but sometimes the suggestions seem to add more work to an already full training plan. Here are some things that have really helped me stay motivated while I have been training.
At first it was easy to hit the gym or the trails. The excitement surrounding my decision to climb (which was coupled with the excitement of accepting my current position with Whittaker Mountaineering) made my workouts fun and exciting. Hopefully this excitement stays with you right up until your climb, but if it doesn't try these tricks to stay on the ball.
1. Have someone to hold you accountable. You can do this a couple of ways. Have a workout partner that you meet a few times a week. Or have someone that you report your progress to. I have a few friends that are serious runners, so when I started to get serious about the sport they loved hearing about my progress, and they had great advice when I would hit a wall. I also advertise pretty heavily when I am trying to develop good habits, because then it becomes one of the first things coworkers, friends, family ask you about. And when you are getting asked "How's your training going?" a few times a day, you want to have something good to report.
2. Get Creative with your Workout. Run the same route for four months and you will surely burn out. I try to run something different each time I go out. Here in Ashford, I am fortunate to have miles of trails right out of my door step. But for a change of pace, I ran on the road today. I also find ways to keep me upbeat when the going gets tough. On a recent hill workout I played cheesy pop music to help me sprint the switchbacks. On my long training hikes I listen to audiobooks.
3. Compete. Maybe its running you regular 5 mile loop five minutes faster. Or entering a local race. I like to find someone who runs faster than me, and push myself to keep up. Setting mini-goals will allow you to feel successful while on your path to the top. There is no rule that says you have to wait until you climb in order to reap the benefits of your training.
4. Take a week off. Counter intuitive? Sure. But it really works. I spent a whole week feeling pretty sluggish on my runs. I had no interest in strength training. Forget push ups. I was burnt out. So I took a whole week and didn't train at all. Sure I got outside, that's just my nature. But I didn't run once. And by the end of the week I was itching to get back out on the trails, and sure enough I had one of my best runs ever. Ear to ear grin the whole time and I ran harder than before the break.
5. Visualize the Mountain. One of the things that helps me on long runs or hike is to think about the mountain. I visualize myself succeeding because of the hard work I am putting into it now. I'm lucky that I get to see my peak pretty often living in Ashford. But if I didn't, I would put a picture of the mountain on my bathroom mirror or the fridge. Somewhere where I can see it everyday, and daydream about what the views will be like standing on top.
Liz is the Retail Manager for Whittaker Mountaineering, and will make her first attempt for the summit of Mt. Rainier this week.
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