Training to Climb Mt Rainier

Allison's Rainier Trip Report

2010-09-17T14:52:00.000-07:00

Well...we're back and I'm pretty sure my whole body could go for a massage right about now. It was not the greatest weekend to go climb a Mountain, weather wise. We started out on Friday with our gear check and the meet and greet. Climbing school soon followed on Saturday morning with a bit of a fog and cooler weather, though we did stay pretty dry throughout the day. We learned a great deal in a short amount of time and I really felt confident in our skills to go tackle Mt Rainier.

Climbing School Photos

Our hike up to Muir was crappy. It was foggy, raining, sleeting, and snowing. The cloud level was around 9200 feet, so we were in the muck up through part of the Muir Snowfield. It was a long hike, but with the breaks, I felt pretty good upon arrival to Muir.

Hike up to Muir

We got all cozy in the "hut" for a few hours and then had our dinner. I think I was able to get a few hours rest before the guides came to wake us up for our Summit Climb. We were all very excited when we stepped out of the "hut" to find the stars were shinning and the wind was low. That would soon change :(

Roping up to begin our Summit Climb

We headed out of Muir through the Cowlitz Glacier and up to Cathedral Gap. The weather was still cooperating...mostly, and physically I felt great going into our first break on the Ingraham Flats. There were definitely some tricky parts (jumping over a crevasse being one of them). Once we hit the Disappointment Cleaver, things went downhill fast. The winds began and quickly started gusting and the snow/sleet were whipping us in the face. If you have ever been on the Disappointment Cleaver, in the dark, you will understand how much that put a damper on things. The Cleaver is no easy conquest and I kept looking up (directly up I might add) only to see the little lights of headlamps from climbers ahead of us. Physically, it was a challenge. We had to put on our goggles which decreased my visual field dramatically. We ended up at the top of Disappointment Cleaver on our 2nd break only to find out we were going back down. The winds were whipping us from our places on the Cleaver and visibility was only to the feet in front of you. It was a mental and physical challenge for me to get up the Cleaver. I found it extremely hard to negotiate all the rocks and cliffs on such a short rope. I was the only female on my rope team and my leg stride was much shorter than my teammates. A couple of little slips and an issue with my crampons sent my heart rate racing, that's for sure. However, knowing we had to turn around and do it all again without summitting was disappointing to say the least. Physically, by that time I was tired, but if they said we could still go, I would have. We ended up turning around and going back down to Muir at that time.

The hard parts?? Learning to pressure breathe (which definitely helped), that was one of the first things we learned in climbing school. I didn't feel much with the altitude, which I am grateful for. The boots...OH THE BOOTS! my shins are both black and blue and swollen from the boots, not sure why that happened, nothing was bunched and I tied the boots near the ankle and not up to relieve pressure on my shins, but they both just HURT! I was telling the guide on the way back down to Paradise "I feel like I could still run laps, if only I had a pair of sneakers!".

Lessons Learned?? Bring a pair of sneakers for Camp Muir and possibly part of the hike up and down from Muir. Every step was excruciating for me coming back down and I only wished I had a pair of sneakers to make it easier.

We did have some nice weather moments at Camp Muir as it was in between the upper mountains storm and the cloud deck below.

This first photo is the spot we took our second break on the Disappointment Clever, the second photo is me (second in) trying to take it all in.

Myself, husband, sister-in-law, brother-in-law, and my brother.

Our RMI guides were FANTASTIC! I cannot say enough about all of them. They were welcoming, extremely knowledgeable and down to earth. I seriously think they made this experience for us. I cannot thank RMI enough for this amazing experience! Being able to rent all our equipment from Whittaker Mountaineering was such a load off of all of us as well. Knowing that all our equipment was waiting for us upon arrival and top of the line, guide recommended equipment was refreshing. Turn in was equally as easy.

Thank you, thank you, thank you! It was an unforgettable experience!

Now it's time for bed :)

-Allison

Allison's Ready For Rainier!

2010-09-01T11:44:00.001-07:00

OK, this is it, two days until we meet up in Ashford, Wa. I decided to do a bit more relaxing this past week, tying all the loose ends on the packing list, took the kids shopping to get ready for school etc... We spent the last two nights camping on the Pacific Ocean in the Olympic National Park. We were able to drive out to the Hoh Rain Forrest where we took a "kid friendly" hike...OK, maybe more like a stroll. It's hard to keep 5 kids going at the same pace, especially when there are big trees to climb and fish to watch in the Hoh River. I ended up carrying our 2 1/2 year old son for most of it. His weight is about equivalent to our climbing backpacks I would think :) I am reminding myself to breath deeply and just absorb all I can this upcoming weekend. I will have my husband at my side the whole way, hopefully giving me a push every now and then :) Our summit night/day is on Sunday/Monday, so be thinking of us! Will hopefully be able to report back next week with photos!!

Anthony is preparing mentally too!

2010-08-27T10:38:00.001-07:00

Ok, so I had the best of intentions for hiking this past weekend. Unfortunately, it didn’t pan out and I missed another opportunity for some pack time. I’m not going to let it get me down though. I will put boots on a trail this weekend, for sure. Given my schedule I have precious few opportunities remaining to be on the trail and I’m starting to feel the pressure.

The gym training has been solid. I’ve been getting about 4 sessions of intense cardio every week. Sessions usually last around an hour and the intensity is pretty high (even anaerobic at times). That combined with 4 sessions of weight training means I’m spending a lot of time in the gym.

I picked up a copy of Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, by Steven M. Cox and Kris Fulsaas over the weekend. It seems like a very good source of information and I’ve managed to skim over a good deal of it. Although, honestly, some of the technical aspects covered are beyond me at this point. Like Allison mentioned, I too have been pouring over the RMI and Whittaker Mountaineering videos and clips on You Tube. I especially liked the tour of Camp Muir, by Peter Whittaker and the July 16^th summit video with Ed Viesturs and Peter Whittaker. Both videos were a great introduction to Mt. Rainier and get me excited all over again about the climb.

I still have to sort out the food situation. At the moment I’m leaning toward just going with a pre-planned meal package. It definitely seems like the most efficient way to go (for me at least). I’m sure I’ll supplement with some of my own goodies, but trying to buy, organize and fly with everything I’m going to eat doesn’t seem practical. Of course, my wife would be the first to tell you that I’m anything but practical.

Camp Muir, Mount Rainier

2010-08-24T09:25:00.000-07:00

Tag along as Whittaker Mountaineering owner, Peter Whittaker gives you a quick tour of Camp Muir....

Allison's got two weeks to go!

2010-08-24T09:20:00.000-07:00

OK, two weeks to go! Wow, this summer has gone by way too fast! I have started to up my workouts a bit here in the last week and a half. In the beginning of the year, I had completed the P90X workout and then towards April/May timeframe completed Insanity. I have now restarted Insanity daily just to make sure I am getting a bit of cardio mixed with resistance training more regularly. I am still hopping on the Stair Machine at the Y with my 30-35lb backpack for an hour about twice a week. I have had a hard time making the HEAT class at the Y this summer, to my disappointment, the class is from 5:30-6:30 and my daughters summer gymnastics schedule is from 2:30-5:30, so it just hasn't worked out much :( I was able to go this past Wednesday and she had us running laps in the parking lot, lunges up and down the sidewalks and resistance running with a partner pulling against the "reins" of a resistance band around our hips. We then finished the workout off with a tricep/bicep workout with the resistance bands in the grass. LOVE that class when I can make it!

Equipment is rented and flights are all set for my climbing partners.

Getting a bit more nervous, but still really excited to do this. Still love watching all the RMI and Whittaker Mountaineering YouTube videos (I get a kick out of how calm and collected they all are when talking about crevasses and ladders, amazing) and I want to thank Lindsey for her amazing blog following her summit. The more I read, the more prepared I feel and her entry had a lot of great information in it, thank you Lindsey for sharing your experience! One loose knot we still have is food. I read, and forgive me for I can't find the post again, a post on nutrition and what to bring on the climb. Trying to decide whether to go with the pre-planned meal package or just bring my own??

Decisions, decisions...

School starts for four of our five kids the day before our climb.

Perfect timing, get to see them off on their first days and then, with hopes the weather holds out, Grandma and Grandpa can take them outside to look at Mt Rainier while we are climbing and tell them that somewhere on that Mt, Mommy and Daddy are going UP!

"I think my biggest concerns are the unknowns..."

2010-08-19T09:03:00.000-07:00

Here is Anthony's latest training blog...

Well, this past week was a little disappointing training wise. While I managed to hit the gym four days, for cardio and resistance work, I missed my normal weekend hike (bummer). I’m going to try and make it up with a little longer outing this weekend. Unfortunately, it won’t be until Sunday due to my work schedule, which means I can’t go over-night like I wanted to (back to work on Monday).

Otherwise, I can’t complain. My training in the gym has been consistent and I’ve made reasonable gains in both my resistance and cardio work over the past few weeks. I have noticed that the increased cardio has made weight maintenance more demanding. I feel like I’m eating pretty big and pretty often in an effort to maintain my weight. I know, I know, that’s a problem most people would love to have.

As time goes by and my climb approaches, I’m getting a little more anxious (nervous?). I feel like physically, I’m fairly well prepared (famous last words), but I still have some loose ends with my equipment and personal supplies to tie up. I know I’ll feel better once everything is taken care of. I think my biggest concerns are the “unknowns” Like: How will I handle the altitude? Will I be able to figure out all the unfamiliar equipment? Will the weather hold up? Have I forgotten anything? Etc, etc. I’m just hoping it’s like they say: Our greatest fears (anxieties) lie in anticipation…

Lindsay Summits Rainier!

2010-08-11T08:45:00.000-07:00

Lindsay & her husband, Marcus on the summit of Rainier!

Our climbing team made it to the summit on the morning of Wednesday August 4^th and couldn’t have had nicer weather. It was sunny and there was little to no wind...exactly how I like it. The weather through the four days was very favourable although I did go through quite a lot of sunscreen!

En route to the training area.

I had some ideas as to what to expect during climbing school, but I couldn’t get over how hot it was when I was completely surrounded by snow. I was a little nervous going into the school because I was afraid that I would not be able to self arrest myself properly, but it turns out the guides were really good at demonstrating and coaching me through each type of self arrest. I wish they could have taught me how to avoid getting chunks of snow in my ears and up my nose, though. Part of the training involved learning how to move as part of a rope team, as well as manoeuvring on snow and rock with crampons. Having to lean forward and trust that the crampons would dig in and stop my forward motion was a little difficult to get used to, especially on the steeper slopes. It feels much different than how I would center my body weight when coming down scree or rock. By far the most fun of the school was sliding down the snow slopes. Who would have thought you could get up so much speed going down such a small hill!

Taking a break during school.

The night before the climb I was pretty anxious. Climbing school had gone pretty well and I was confident in my skills, but what I still didn’t know was how I was going to handle the altitude. I kept telling myself that I would be okay because I had previously climbed to a higher altitude, but it was still an unknown.

Climbing up the Muir Snowfield en route to Muir.

It was calm and very sunny all of the way up to Camp Muir. On the snow, I found it was difficult for me to stay in rhythm with the rest of the team because their stride lengths were much bigger than mine. During breaks (every hour for about 15 minutes), I would drink about 500 ml of water and refuel with either an energy bar, dried fruit, or granola bars. Pita chips were my favourite snack so I saved those for the summit.

At Camp Muir I had time to organize my gear for the climb, sip on my water, and eat (dehydrated meal – lasagne and more snacks), before getting into bed at 6 pm. I had thought about bringing a pair of sandals with me, but at the last second I decided I would forego the weight. My advice would be to bring them because there is some time at camp where you can just hang around and rest. It’s nice to do this without big hiking boots and sweaty socks. If someone forgets to tell you, use the mats to block the windows in the top bunks (not sure why I couldn’t have figured this out myself?). I think I probably got about 3 hours of decent sleep before our guides brought in the hot water. I slept in my base layers so it would be easier to get going in the morning as our team only had one hour to pack up our gear, eat (dried fruit and cream of wheat), go to the washroom, and put on our harnesses and crampons.

Heading up a steeper section.

When we set out at 1 am, it was dark, but a lot warmer than I had expected. At our first break, to my surprise, I was shivering the whole time we sat down. Some of our climbers were deciding to turn around and at one point I thought I may need to as well because of how cold I was, but when we started to move again, my shivering stopped and I was feeling pretty good. The summit climb ended up being a lot easier for me physically than I had expected. Mentally, I was waiting for the altitude to hit me, but it didn’t come until we started to descend. I felt a little light headed, but was surprised that I had not felt nauseous at all during the trip. Overall, I was very prepared for the challenges of the trip. Going over the ladder was easier than it sounded, but the jumping of the crevasses was certainly something I would not like to do very often. One thing I will mention that I found a little difficult on the climb was adjusting to being roped with the team. I had to force myself to move faster than I usually do, but also I had to be cognisant of the person in front and behind at all times, especially when going up and down the Clever on short ropes.

Little Tahoma

Lindsay at High Break.

My favourite part of the climb would have to be sitting at High Break (13,500 ft) and watching the sun come up. The clouds below were starting to billow up over Lil’ Tacoma and Mount Adams could be seen peaking out of the clouds. It was such a beautiful sight! It also meant that it would begin to warm up, so mentally it was a really good pick-me-up before making our final push to the summit.

The whole team on top!

I am so happy that my husband and I took the time to pack train as much as we did prior to the climb. If you can do this climb with someone else it certainly saves on the amount of weight you have to carry up the mountain with you (my husband and I shared a lot of stuff rather than bringing duplicate items). My pack was pretty light compared to what I actually trained with so I found I could handle the weight easily on both days of the climb. I am sure that the resistance training that I did helped with the ability to carry my gear, but I believe it also played a role in my recovery. My body didn’t really fatigue as much as I thought it might. Other than a little tightness in my right calf muscle, I felt like I had just done a regular workout. I thank our RMI guides and Whittaker Mountaineering for helping make the climb such an enjoyable experience. Now all that is left is to figure out what peak will be next!

Ed Viesturs: Physical vs. Mental Training

2010-08-10T13:35:00.000-07:00

What's more important, physical or mental training? Whittaker Mountaineering Guide Team member, Ed Viesturs talks about training for mountaineering physically vs. mentally.

Anthony hits the beach!

2010-08-10T08:25:00.001-07:00

Well, I made it back from the beach (had a blast!), so my training schedule was a little short this past week. I still managed to get in three days at the gym and a short day hike on Saturday. Unfortunately, I didn’t hold to my diet very well while I was at the beach and I feel a little (just a little) guilty about that. The pizza, ice cream, French fries, and beer (lots of beer) were the worst of it, but hey, it’s the beach! Overall, no harm done and I’m back on the plan (or wagon if you like). I did get in a couple of long walks and a good run, but it was nothing structured so it doesn’t count as training.

The hike on Saturday was good; short, but intense. The total distance (roundtrip) was only about 6 miles, but we gained over 1700 feet in the last 2 miles with a gnarly rock climb/scramble (steep!) in the final ½ mile or so. I carried my pack with 55lbs in it and was able to move at a fairly fast pace, but I was huffing pretty hard by the time I reached the top. The decent through the rock climb/scramble, with the pack on, was a little scary and a good workout in itself. I was surprised at how much my core had to work to brace and balance the pack. Good stuff.

My training plan going forward will stay the same for the most part. I definitely want to get in some longer duration, perhaps overnight or full weekend, hikes in the near future. It would also be nice to get in a conditioning climb with some altitude, but altitude is hard to come by on the east coast.

Allison Hits the Gym & YouTube

2010-08-09T08:33:00.000-07:00

Wow, time is FLYING!!! Just 4 more weeks until our big climb and I am beginning to feel ready...I think. I have been going to the Y several times a week (carrying my big 30lb ruck sack) and stepping on the stair machine for about 60 minutes at the Intense Fat Burner interval level. I follow that with an amazing hour long YOGA class. For more endurance training, I have been trying to run once or twice a week if I can get away from the kids.

I continue to listen to the RMI Training Podcast on Altitude, quite interesting and I would recommend it to anyone planning on doing any activity where altitude is a factor. This past week, however, I have taken to watching a ton of videos on all things climbing related.

Myself, being a novice, I want to soak up as much information about crampons, ice axe use etc... so I have some idea what to expect prior to arriving in Ashford. My husband and I really enjoy watching the Whittaker Mountaineering videos on YouTube.

The weather here in the Puget Sound this past weekend was YUCK.

Reminds me of mid October weather but a bit warmer. I am crossing my fingers that our climbing weather will be perfect. Here's to hoping :)

Anthony gets out on a hike!

2010-08-04T09:57:00.001-07:00

This past week was a pretty full training week for me. I managed to get in a good hike over the weekend. Total distance was about 15 miles. I carried 50lb in my pack and I'm not sure what the exact elevation gain was, but there was a lot of up-hill work. I quickly realized that I wasn't carrying enough water and suffered for a long piece of the hike. I later found out that the heat index was over 100 degrees that day. I managed to finish okay, albeit with a very dry mouth and five pounds lighter (161.8lbs prior to leaving and 156.2lbs when I got home). Not an ideal job of planning on my part, but lesson learned.

We had intended to do a two day overnight trip, but ended up boating with friends (lots of fun) on Saturday, so I had to fit the hiking in on Sunday. The rest of the week was filled with the usual weights and cardio. For weightlifting, I use a fairly comprehensive routine. My leg work focuses on 4 sets of 15 reps or 5 sets of 10 reps. I don't usually work with rep ranges higher than 15, maybe I should, but so far I haven't. The usual exercises like squats, lunges (usually dynamic), stiff leg dead-lifts, leg extensions and leg curls are the staples of my leg work. Although, I recently did some hack squats (4 sets of 15 reps) that absolutely hammered my thighs.

I picked up a really good DVD called “Train To Climb Mt. Rainier” produced by Body Results Inc. There was some really good information on it. It lays out a very nice training program and provides some really nice benchmarks to train toward. I would definitely recommend it for those new to training for climbing (like myself). I also took the time to review the three training pod-casts put out by RMI Expeditions. These are also filled with very interesting information. Definitely worth taking the time to listen to.

We are heading to the beach for a couple of days this coming week so training will be put on hold. I'm going to shoot for some active rest; morning runs, stretching and some body-weight calisthenics. Honestly, so long as I don't eat too badly, the rest will do me good.

Less than a week for Lindsay...

2010-07-30T09:56:00.000-07:00

Yikes...less than a week away until my climb of Rainier and I have to admit I am a little anxious to find out if the training has prepared me enough for the climb. This week has been pretty low key with only one resistance workout, a couple 20 km bike rides, and some swimming. I have been trying to taper down my workouts in preparation for the climb like I would do if I was getting ready for a road race or triathlon. I wouldn’t say that I have been carb-loading as I don’t necessarily have a specific formula to follow, but I have certainly been trying to make sure I am not dehydrated in the days leading up to the climb. I have been drinking at least 2 litres of water each day and compensating when I work out. If you haven’t seen the videos that have been posted on Whittaker Mountaineering’s website, I would highly recommend it. The video of the climb to the summit of Rainier on July 16th really helped me get mentally prepared for the climb. I can’t believe there is so much snow, but at least I am going to be prepared for it. It gave some insight into what I can expect, like going to bed at 6 pm (really?) and setting out for the summit in the dark. I find the more information I know about the climbing conditions and itinerary, the better I can handle not so favourable situations...like the wind. I hate wind, but knowing that there is a likely chance there will be lots of it, makes the idea a little more bearable. I have been reading a lot of updates on Facebook that the weather has been really good up on the summit so I am hoping the good weather stays around for my climb. My husband and I are heading to Seattle Friday and will head down to Ashford on Sunday to begin our adventure...can’t wait for the experience to begin!

Be sure to check out the latest Route Condition video from Whittaker Mountaineering owner, Peter Whittaker's latest climb, July 28th.

David's Final Entry

2010-07-29T09:27:00.001-07:00

Beshears Final Journal Entry

July 28, 2010

Friday morning, about 10:30 AM. I check my gear one final time and load it into the car. I turn on the GPS system, directed it to Whittaker’s Bunkhouse in Ashford and set off.

Orientation at the meeting house started at 3:00. We got acquainted with our fellow team members, checked through our gear to make sure we had all that we’d need, and the guide went over the game plan for the next few days.

I checked into my room, then wandered around trying to find a phone signal. It took a while, but I finally got one near the left rear bumper of my car. I called home to let Sylvia know how things were going.

Saturday morning… the team met up outside the meeting house. We loaded into a shuttle and made the 45 minute drive up to Paradise. We spent the day up on the mountain training for the climb; learned all about ice arrest, how to rope up and travel roped, how to use crampons, and a lot more. It was a great day of training and a great workout.

Saturday evening, sitting near the back bumper of my car, carefully holding my cell phone in just the right position to keep a signal… There was a problem at home, a family crisis. After doing what I could long distance (pretty much nothing), I hung up and hoped for the best. A few hours later, one of the hotel staff knocked on my door with a message to call home (no phones in the rooms). I went looking for a signal. When I finally connected, things were worse…

Sunday morning before I met with the rest of the team to start the climb, I called home again. Looked like I was going home… no mountain today. I stood outside the gear rental shop until it opened and turned in those items that I had chosen to rent rather than buy. I left word for my guide, got into my car, and started home.

It was devastating. I was crushed. After two years of planning, after seven months of training, I was headed home. This climb was for my son, a young soldier injured so horribly in the war, and I was going home without completing the mission. And I was ready… so damned ready…

Well I’m not finished. As soon as this all gets sorted out, I’m going back to the mountain.

Caroline George's Nutrition Tips

2010-07-28T13:22:00.000-07:00

Whittaker Mountaineering Guide Team member, Caroline George's advice on nutrition for alpine adventures...

Nutrition: eat healthy! If you eat well and enough, you will be ready for a climb. I don't usually eat more than usual the night before a climb because it would prevent me from sleeping well. I eat normally the days before a climb too. What matters is that while you are climbing, you are snacking regularly. I always keep food accessible in my pockets so that I can eat something quickly at each break. On a climb, I usually eat nuts and dry fruits, because they are high in calories and I therefore don't need to carry too much with me. It's a great weight/calories ratio.

Personally, I try to eat a lot of protein, fruits, vegetables, goat cheese and nuts. These seem to be the food that make me feel and perform the best. That being said, we all have different body types and it's important to figure out what works best for you.

Allison Takes Her Pack To The Gym!

2010-07-28T09:57:00.000-07:00

Phew, what a week it has been for us. First off, my husband arrived safe and sound on Thursday morning...YIPPEE! Now for some TRAINING!

It has been hard for me to find the time to train like I really want to with my husband gone, but that obstacle is no longer an issue, YEAH FOR ME. I was able to get in a few runs this week along some rolling hills here in town. The town we live in is ideal for running and biking. We have over 30 miles of trails, both paved and dirt/gravel to utilize, right outside our front door with amazing views of Rainier and the Puget Sound, very picturesque. I really enjoy running and if I can get my IT band under control, would LOVE to try for a marathon someday. I also sported the backpack with about 30 lbs in it (using some of my old Nursing Text Books, man are those BIG) and hit the stair climber at the Y. Was able to get in about 45 minutes before the kids were done with their activities. I guess I stand out at the Y with the big pack on because numerous people have come up to me and asked if I was training to climb a mountain. Guess I'm on the right path.

On top of training, I have started listening to Whittaker Mountaineering's Training Podcasts on Altitude. I think that will be my biggest obstacle, mentally. I am not as worried about the physical aspect of the climb as I am about the altitude. The first podcast was interesting, especially to me, a Registered Nurse, as it talked over the pathophysiology of altitude on your body. I plan to listen to the 2nd and 3rd Podcasts as well.

Well, I'm off to take the kiddos to the pool! Happy training :)

How Caroline George stays fueled in the mountains...

2010-07-25T12:50:00.000-07:00

Whittaker Mountaineering Guide Team member, Caroline George on 'what to eat' in the mountains:

There is no one way to eat in the mountains. What might work for one person may not work for another, so it's important to figure out how your body reacts to different food and drinks before you actually start on the climb. As a general guideline, it's good to eat a few healthy and slightly more caloric meals during the days preceding a climb to stock up on energy. During your approach to camp, stop every hour to drink and nibble on a light snack. Once at camp, rehydrate thoroughly. I personally try to drink a warm beverage because it performs the double task of hydrating me and that of keeping me warm. Supper should consist of an easily digestible meal so that it doesn't prevent you from sleeping. Also, the stress of the climb might tie your stomach in knots, which could in turn make the digestion process harder. Be mindful of how much you eat the night before the climb.

On D-Day, a small cup of oatmeal and a warm drink is enough to get me going in the morning. While climbing, take advantage of every break to drink and snack. As it's not always possible to stop every hour, I keep something to eat in my pants or jacket pocket in case of a sudden craving. We all react differently to temperatures, the stress of the ascent, the weather, the altitude, etc: some people need to eat a lot, others have no appetite. What matters however is to eat a little bit every hour: don't eat your whole sandwich in one go because it will literally take your breath away when you start ascending again. A little bite at a time will do the trick.

This is what I would typically take on a climb with me:

Approach Snack: a big cookie, an orange, nuts (I like Maple Pecans because they are sugar coated so it gives me an instant kick), bars, a sandwich.

To rehydrate at camp: an electrolyte powder (Nunn, Gatorade, etc.), a soup or some broth.

In the evening: mashed potatoes (super light to carry) and a package of tuna fish. Some chocolate and an herbal tea for desert.

The morning of the climb: 1.5 small package of Quick Oatmeal and some tea/coffee.

On the climb: a few bars, nuts, chocolate, gels or cliff blocks, a thermos full of a warm drink or a platypus depending on the temperatures. I bring food that I am really excited to eat so that I can motivate to eat them on the mountains.

After the climb: a nice meal, lots and lots of liquid and if you're afraid you might be sore, take an Ibuprofen.

"...there is no greater satisfaction than to overcome your fear."

2010-07-24T12:33:00.000-07:00

Whittaker Mountaineering Guide Team member, Caroline George answers some training and preparation questions:

What are your best suggestions for staying fit for your next climb?

For alpine climbing, a mix of cardio and strength is the best training for your next climb. It's a good idea to go on long hikes with a loaded backpack on, so that you know what to expect. Knowing what to expect will help both physically and psychologically. Getting psychologically ready and motivated is maybe the most important training you can do, as the body will follow what the mind wants.

What was an intimidating or scary moment in your climbing career and how did you overcome it?
The most scary moment in my climbing career was skiing down from the summit of Mont Dolent, a peak border to Switzerland, Italy and France. I was skiing down a 45-50degree slope when a small wet snow slide took me off guard and pushed me over the edge. I fell 1300ft down a rock face, landing in soft snow on the glacier below. During the fall, I was sure that I was going to die. Others had died there. But I survived. And despite deep hypothermia - I had to wait 4 hours for rescue -, multiple fractures and two months flat on my back on a hospital bed, I didn't shy away from climbing. Much to the contrary. It motivated me to learn more about snow conditions and how to climb safer in the mountains. I could have quit climbing then, but I didn't and this taught that when you really want something, you have to be willing to overcome your fears and failures.

In the mountains, when I encounter an intimidating or scary moment, I take the time to regroup my thoughts, assess the hazard and consider the options. Sometimes the only way out is going to the top and you just have to dig deep and trust that you can do it. Other times, the risk may not be worth your while, and it's time to bail. An important aspect to acknowledge in climbing is the difference between irrational fears and a truly dangerous situation. Be sure to know your limits and feel comfortable with them. But know that in the end, there is no greater satisfaction than to overcome your fear.

Do you have any tricks to staying warm when you start feeling cold?
Think warm thoughts! Anyone who knows me knows I can't go anywhere without warm tea. I drink a lot. Eat a lot, but in small portions. And I am not afraid of climbing with one or two down jackets on. I wear heat packs on my wrists when it's really cold: to do so, I use feet warmers and put the sticky side on the inside of the glove, so that the warm side is on my skin. I take the time to windmill my arms a lot to keep blood flowing to my extremities. And I don't wait a whole day to go pee, because all the energy that the body puts into keeping urine warm, is energy that doesn't go into warming other parts of your body.

It is important to use the layering system to stay warm. The pockets of air between each layer are what help you stay warm. I personally prefer to wear Merino Wool close to my skin. Merino stays warm even when it gets wet. My favorite piece is First Ascent's Ultra-195 Merino Baselayer 1/4 Zip and Pants.

For more on Caroline, check out her page on our website.

Anthony mixes it up

2010-07-24T11:58:00.000-07:00

For the most part my routine stayed the same this past week, with a few minor tweaks to keep things interesting. “Two-a-days” are pretty much standard for me now, with weightlifting in the morning and cardio in the afternoon.

I sat in on my first cycling class the other day. It’s a great workout. It really fired up the quads and the lungs. I’ve been back four times since and feel myself getting stronger each time. Each class is 45 minutes to an hour in duration and the intensity is up to the individual. I know it’s not the “best” cardio for climbing, but I’ve found that there are a few advantages (for me at least): 1) it helps me to mix it up. By utilizing different training modalities, I stay interested, challenged, and out of the rut of monotony. 2) It is very motivating. There is something about being in a room full of people that brings out my competitive side; I refuse to let anyone work harder than me, so I really push myself (c’mon, admit it…you guys are just as competitive as I am…or, am I a freak?). 3) It fits my schedule. As much as I want to, there is no way to fit in a 4+ hour hike each day. There is one disadvantage to cycling though, (at least so far). How do I say this? Um, the bike seat is very hard. Consequently, my seat is very sore. I’ll be taking a few days and hitting the stair-master and treadmill instead.

My wife and I got in a pretty good hike on Saturday. I had picked up a backpack earlier in the week, so I loaded it with 53lbs (I used the bathroom scales) of stuff and we hit the trail. We hiked to a place called Mcafee’s knob. It’s a popular piece of the Appalachian Trail in Virginia. Total distance is about 8 miles roundtrip. It’s a pretty easy hike with only about 1200 feet of elevation gain, most of which is in the last mile of the trip up. Not counting the time spent enjoying the view, we spent a total of just under 3.5 hours hiking. It rained hard the whole way up and my wife was a real trooper about it. She really isn’t “into it”, the way I am, and I know she just goes to keep me company, which I appreciate. We are planning an over-nighter this weekend which should be fun.

David Heads to Rainier!!

2010-07-23T09:31:00.001-07:00

Beshears Journal Entry - July 23

Friday, July 23^rd

This is it… heading out to Mt. Rainier this morning. Orientation with RMI this afternoon, ascent this weekend. Looks like a full moon coming up, hope the night sky is clear when we make the final climb to the summit early Monday.

I went on my last conditioning climb this past Sunday; climbed Mt. Ellinor. It went great, and I got acquainted with mountain goats living up at the summit. Took a lot of pictures, put some of them on my facebook page (davidrbeshears).

Mt. Ellinor has a snow field that reminds me just a little of the snow field below Camp Muir. Good training.

I was planning to do some glissading back down, but another climber I met told me she had heard of people getting injured on Ellinor recently because of hidden rocks. So I put away my outer layer and started hiking down. I began slipping and plopped onto my butt, began an involuntary glissade. Trying not to glissade is much harder than glissading. I wasn’t wearing my outer layer and since I didn’t want to get soaked, I tried to stop myself. My legs went under me and I was holding my trekking poles for hiking, not glissading. I grabbed at some bushes going by and managed to come to a stop before things got out of hand. Still, good thing I’m going to be trained for this tomorrow, eh?

When I got back down to the trailhead, I felt exhilarated. Great hike, had a wonderful time. I am really looking forward to Rainier.

Lindsay hits the trail some more!

2010-07-21T15:07:00.000-07:00

Well, we couldn’t have had better weather on the climbs this weekend. When I got out of the tent on Saturday morning there was not one cloud in the sky, just bright blue and sunshine. Grotto Mountain started out okay, but about an hour and a half into the climb it became relentless. Once again I had my pack on with most of the gear I would need to bring for the Rainier climb and for some reason it really felt heavy this time. It seemed like it was taking forever to get to the summit. All I could think of was I hope the hike up to Camp Muir would not be as steep. My husband and I ran into some big horn sheep on the ridge approaching the summit and they didn’t appear to care that we were even there. It took us just under 5 hours to climb 1425 m with our weighted packs and just under 3 hours to get back down. We were both pretty tired when we got back to the car and ready for a relaxing evening at the campground. We did stop at a gas station in Canmore to get some much needed Powerade and water as we both felt pretty dehydrated, even though we had both packed a litre of water and half a litre of gatorade. The next morning we had prepared for it to be cloudy and raining, but to our surprise there was a bright blue sky and it was sunny. We cleaned up our campsite and headed to climb Ha Ling Peak. This is a pretty popular climb in the area so we wanted to get an early start so the trail wouldn’t be too crowded. Ha Ling Peak is an easy scramble with an elevation gain of 700 m. It took us under 2 hours to get to the summit and just over an hour to descend. Since we leave for Seattle in two weeks we have decided to forego climbing next week and instead just continue with the gym workouts.

I can't believe there is only 2 more weeks until we leave for Seattle - I hope the weeks go by fast :)

Allison HEATs it up!

2010-07-20T12:25:00.000-07:00

This week was filled with goodbyes to family and hello's to new neighbors with lots and lots of packing and unpacking from our vacation. I was able to get in only two days of Insanity workouts this past week...UGH! I have all these plans for the upcoming weeks prior to our big weekend, with hopes that I can actually do them. I borrowed a nice hiking backpack from a friend and plan to stuff it full of "stuff" and hop on the stair climber at the Y while our 7 yr old is at gymnastics. Our Y has an amazing trainer who teaches HEAT (High Energy Athletic Training) classes three times/week, which I was doing prior to our vacation. Just found out that she has started a HEAT Boot Camp for the summer, three times/week full of running, climbing, swimming etc. I'll let you know how it goes :)

This upcoming week is the most anticipated week for our family though.
My husband is due to return from Iraq after being deployed for 12 months. Not sure when he is due to arrive, but we are hoping by Friday the latest! The kids and I cannot wait to get our arms around him and have him home again.

One more week for David!

2010-07-17T09:46:00.001-07:00

July 16, 2010

As I write this, I have one week to go before orientation day at RMI and I begin my four days at Mt. Rainier. I spent the last week stair climbing in the mornings and on the treadmill in the afternoons. I will be going on a final conditioning climb on Sunday, this time Mt. Ellinor. I understand the elevation gain is about 3200ft and that it takes about 4 hours to get to the summit.

After Ellinor I’ll back off quite bit. Monday thru Thursday I’ll limit myself to some easy walks, Yoga and stretching. And on Friday morning I’ll pack everything up and make the drive up to Rainier.

Anthony has an awesome Nutrition Tip...

2010-07-16T09:31:00.001-07:00

So far so good...This week I've managed to hit the gym twice a day everyday except Wednesday (rest). I've been hitting the weights in the mornings and the cardio in the afternoon/evenings. I realize that the weightlifting is not as important for conditioning as the cardio, but I just can't help myself; I enjoy it. Plus, I really don't want to lose strength or body-weight and with the increased cardio I'm concerned that's a possibility. So far the cardio work has been good. I'm shooting for at least an hour a day (except rest days) with my heart rate in the aerobic zone and most days I push it beyond that. I try to pay attention to how I feel and adjust my workouts accordingly. I don't want any injuries.

I've been watching my diet pretty closely as well. As I mentioned I don't want to lose weight so I want to make sure I get enough of the right kind of calories. I use a website called “FITDAY” to help me keep track of the calories and macro-nutrients I consume on a daily basis. This may be a little OCD for some people, but it works for me. The website is free and I recommend it to anyone who is interested in monitoring and controlling their diet.

I've decided that there are a couple of training items I need to pick up to make the trail hiking more productive. First is a decent backpack. Something large enough to effectively carry sufficient amounts of weight. I've been using a book-bag stuffed with 30lbs of old text books, but the bag is really strained and the weight pulls directly down on the shoulders. The second item is a good heart rate monitor, something that will give me accurate and consistent feedback.

I'm looking forward to a couple of good day-hikes this weekend. Honestly, I'd like to get in more hiking than time or work will allow, but so far so good...

Monica's McKinley Trip Report!

2010-07-13T15:12:00.000-07:00

The wise sage Woody Allen once said, “If you want to make God laugh, tell him your plans.” After months of tunnel vision, during which I obsessively read about, talked about and thought about climbing Denali, the mountain made mincemeat out of me, with no apologies or explanations. But do I care or have any regrets? No! I have never considered myself a peak bagger, and making the summit has always seemed like icing on the cake. The time on Denali was incredibly rich in experience and sensory input that the only annoyance in not making it to the top is that I will probably have to try again sometime.

We were delayed in Talkeetna by a day due to weather, but were finally flown on the glacier that Friday late afternoon. We then rigged our sleds and packs with more gear than I thought imaginable, had dinner, drank copious amounts of water, slathered on sunscreen, roped up and set out at about 10PM. I was behind Jake our rock star of a lead guide, and he must have sensed I was a bundle of nerves because he said “Monica, all we’re doing today is going for a nice, leisurely walk.” He was correct. That first day was the heaviest load, but the mildest terrain, going downhill first then gradually heading up to 7800 ft. camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. There were many crevasses all around and below us, but the snow was firm and we had a pretty direct path. We rolled into camp around 5:30 AM, set up tents and went to sleep. Our next move was to 9700 camp. I tried to outwit my backpack and put more weight in my sled, which was a big mistake. I felt like I was pulling the entire world behind me, and struggled unnecessarily. After some redistribution, I had a much better time.

Things went south for me after our carry from 11000 to 14000. It was very hot, as it had been on most of our days, and we were sweating profusely. I felt good and strong, although the last push to the 14000 foot camp was endless, and it felt like we would never get there. My feet were feeling very sweaty and I could feel some hot spots under my heels, but as we were going down, those hot spots became searing. When I took my boots off, the left heel and arch of my foot were lacking a couple of layers of skin, with subsequent oozing. Getting around camp that evening was torture, and I cursed every time I had to pee. Even hopping in the vestibule to use my pee bottle was shockingly painful. The next day we moved to 14000 camp and I cowboyed up since that’s what I was there for. Again, I felt pretty strong and was able to overcome the feeling that I was stepping on nails with each step. However, in camp I couldn’t cope and again going to the bathroom was the most dreaded of chores. Despite the constant reminders from the guides to drink tons of water, I limited my intake as much as I could, because I couldn’t deal with the simple act of walking or standing to pee.

The next day we carried to 16,200ft. This is along the “headwall”, and the last 800 or so feet were steep enough to require fixed lines. I felt horrible. I had trouble catching my breath, felt off balance, felt my calves cramping, generally was quite miserable. Coming down chafed my left foot even more, and I started feeling the same on my right. The next day was a rest day when we should have been acclimating and regaining strength for our move to 17000. Since we weren’t exerting ourselves, I conserved my water to avoid walking to the pee area, and got myself in a major hole. I also started Diamox, thinking my issues were altitude related. Unfortunately, Diamox is a diuretic, and I didn’t’ drink nearly enough to compensate. During the move, I felt much worse than the two days before. I felt terribly off balance, couldn’t catch my breath, was cramping, and kept closing my eyes like I was about to fall asleep. At one point I asked Andy, one of our other rock star guides, if I could just lie down and take a quick nap. Needless to say, that was the end of the line for me. At that point I was not disappointed. I felt terrible and was questioning if I had cerebral edema. I assured myself that if I was even thinking that, I didn’t. I air-kissed my teammates goodbye and watched them head up while Elias, our third rock star, and I descended to the medic tent at 14000.

The doctor at 14000 was kind of like a high altitude Dr. House, and he came up with the thoroughly unglamorous diagnosis of dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. Once he said it, I realized of course that’s what had happened. Reviewing my water intake over the past several days, it wasn’t sufficient for a day at the office at sea level. I spent the next two days drinking water and Gatorade and anxiously waiting for my teammates to do their thing and safely descend. By the time they came down I felt better but certainly not normal. The descent was probably the most harrowing of all the days. It had been quite warm and despite traveling at the coldest time of day, the snow bridges on the lower glacier were really weak and everyone on our team punched through crevasses. Our guides got us out flawlessly though, and I had complete trust in them. The move up heartbreak hill actually drove me to giggles. It was the final push before getting to base camp, and after all that downhill, uphill with our heavy sleds made us feel like true beasts of burden.

At one point while I was rehydrating at 14000, I began anticipating my friends and families questions, namely was I terribly upset that I didn’t summit. I wholeheartedly have to say no. Although I would have liked to see the Buttress and the view from the top, I felt so privileged to have been on Denali at all in such an intimate way. The beauty of Denali and the surrounding peaks is so shockingly splendid that it dropped me to my knees at times. It was truly the closest to a spiritual encounter that I will ever have. I also felt like every moment was filled with a new experience, ranging from dealing with snow inside the tent from condensed, frozen breath to managing those sleds. Thus, even though when I got home my feet were still in terrible shape and I was exhausted, I felt refreshed and renewed.

For obvious reasons, my biggest piece of advice for future Denali climbers is to drink more water than you can possibly fathom. Also, if you are a contact lens wearer and have ever considered lasix, get it done before the climb. Dealing with Contacts was a major hassle. Finally, sleep with the food you’re going to eat the next day. Nothing is worse than biting into a frozen cliff bar. My sleeping bag housed socks, boot liners, contact lenses and solution, iPod, batteries, the two layers I would wear over my base layer, climbing pants, water, pee bottle (frozen pee bottle is no good), gloves, and the food I’d eat the next day.

As for my future climbing, I desperately need more practice with self care at high altitude, and need to find some less hostile mountains to work on it. I’m a bit afraid since I couldn’t have anticipated those blisters for anything. Same boots as previous climbs, same socks. I have no idea what happened. Ultimately though, I think I could have overcome the pain during climbing, if I were able to manage the water flow. It’s the dehydration that finally got the best of me, not the blisters. Denali isn’t going anywhere, and I’m pretty sure I’ll try again within the next five years. At that point if I again don’t make it to the top, I’m still sure I will have an amazing time and again be foolishly happy that I even stepped foot on it.

Allison Takes Her Training To The Trail!

2010-07-13T10:07:00.000-07:00

This week has been full of fun with some training involved as well.

Started out Sunday morning hiking through Sleeping Giant State Park in Connecticut with my brother and a friend. We put about 30 lbs into our backpacks and headed out for about 5 miles or so. I was so mad (and still am) at myself for forgetting my Garmin Forerunner, would have LOVED to see how far we actually hiked along with our elevation, but oh well, totally forgot it in my suitcase! We hiked through some steep rocky terrain and the view from the top was great. I will attach a few photos. This was my first time hiking with hiking poles and I have to admit, they really made a difference.

I think I frightened my little brother when I told him we only have 8 weeks until our big climb. I am pretty sure he thought we had more time. His training buddy reminded us that we are ready for this climb, it's the added training that will make the climb less painful. I thought he said it quite eloquently :) LOL.

It has been hot and humid here in Connecticut and we hit a waterpark/ amusement park on Friday with the kids. Four adults to 7 kids 10 and under, we were definitely outnumbered. Does riding roller coasters suffice for altitude training?? I WISH! At least all that walking gave me a bit of a workout, especially when my 5 year old twins demanded I carry them. I'd say they weigh more than my Mt Rainier backpack.

Ready or not...

2010-07-10T11:11:00.000-07:00

July 9, 2010

I spent a lot of this last week with our son (wounded in the war), but I did manage to get onto the treadmill every day (always there waiting for me). The front is blocked up high and I tried to work hard at each session. I’ll be going out on a day hike this weekend with a 40lb pack, and next week I’ll be on stair climbs in the mornings, treadmill in the afternoons. I would like to get one more serious conditioning climb in, don’t know if I’ll be able to. Two weeks to go… I feel ready, but ready or not…

Meet Anthony - Training for Rainier!

2010-07-09T09:48:00.001-07:00

Hi everyone! My name is Anthony and I’m currently living in Roanoke, Virginia. I’m scheduled to climb Mt. Rainier with RMI the week of September 19^th. I was fortunate enough to get one of the last spots for the Expedition Skills Seminar-Camp Muir.

The idea to climb Mt. Rainier occurred to me a couple of years ago. It seemed like it would be a really neat challenge and a worthy accomplishment if I was successful. Unfortunately, work commitments and scheduling conflicts prevented the opportunity until now. Why Mt. Rainier and not some other mountain? I don’t really know, other than to say it seemed like a serious challenge and a great place to learn about mountaineering. Who knows, if I like it, maybe I’ll try some other climbs (although my wife may have something to say about that).

My training really started around November of last year. At that time I was overweight and out of shape (approx 200lbs @ 5’ 7”) to say the least. I made up my mind to do something about it, so I joined a local gym and hired a personal trainer. I got a lot of flack from friends and got a lot of strange looks from the muscle heads at the gym about the personal trainer, but I paid them no mind. It worked for me. It was a great motivator knowing that someone was at the gym waiting for me and expecting me to be there. The results were good too. In a few months I was able to drop 35 to 40 pounds and cut my body fat percentage from around 30% to around 10%. Since then I’ve been training on my own and making steady progress.

With the climb coming up in September, I’ll be focusing on hitting the cardio hard (treadmill and stair-master primarily) and getting as much hiking with a weighted pack as I can. Unfortunately, living in Virginia, there is very little way to train for the altitude of a big mountain like Rainier and honestly, I’m a little nervous about that. I’m hoping that a regular routine of high intensity interval training (HIIT) will help, but I guess there are always factors we can’t train for perfectly.

Anyway, I’m excited about the climb and look forward to a great adventure!

Lindsay's Backcountry Adventure!

2010-07-07T09:19:00.000-07:00

My husband and I have not been backcountry camping since we hiked the Chilkoot Trail in 2008 but we figured it would be good for the training. We headed out to the Fryatt Valley about 30 km south of Jasper, Alberta. I knew this would be a test for me because I hadn’t really been on a longer hike carrying as much weight, but I was up for the challenge. The first day was just a long plod through a forest with a little bit of elevation gain towards the campsite at 17.7 km. It was a little chilly in the morning when we set out, so I was wearing a dry fit shirt, light fleece sweater, and a jacket. I like to bring small gloves (the stretchy kind) that keep my hands warm while I get going into the hike. My experience as a runner helps with knowing what to wear and how to layer my clothing so I knew I needed to start out wearing clothes that I was a bit chilled in. I’ve learned it is much easier to strip off layers than to not have enough.

Taking breaks isn’t something my husband and I do often, but we found that every hour it was good to give our shoulders and hips a break. Hydration is important and even if you are not thirsty it is important to have something every time you stop; I have to remind myself of this all of the time when I am hiking.

The second day, we climbed the headwall which was over 200 m elevation gain in a 0.8 km distance. I took my pack (half full) with me to have something on my back while scrambling up the headwall. I was impressed that I was able to get up the headwall and not feel exhausted. It’s been a while since I last scrambled any mountains so I was a little nervous how it was going to go. In past climbs I was so slow and my calves were just killing me, but not this time. I remember not liking hiking poles, but using them has really helped with my speed and decreased the amount of strain on my body.

In between climbs I have been keeping up with the resistance sessions twice a week. Interval speed runs start this week where I will be starting off with 2 intervals (warm-up run approx. 2 km, run 1 mile at 5:10 pace, then walk/slow jog for 0.40 miles, repeat once, then cool-down run approx. 2 km, then stretch). Each week the number of intervals increases and depending on how the runs go I may change the pace at which I run the intervals. Our next climb will be a scramble out in Jasper which has a higher elevation gain than what we have done so far. Should be interesting!

Meet Allison - Training for Rainier!

2010-07-05T09:55:00.000-07:00

We've got another round of climbers who are training for Rainier later this summer - Here's a look at Allison's training...

Hello, my name is Allison and my husband and I (along with my brother, brother-in-law, and sister-in-law) are scheduled to climb Mt Rainier over Labor Day weekend.

Why are we climbing Mt Rainier? Well, we are a military family and this is our second time stationed here at Ft Lewis, WA. We are constantly looking up at Mt Rainier and saying "Wouldn't it be amazing to climb that Mountain!". In December of this year, my little brother came out to visit while my husband was deployed and looked at me one day and said "Let's climb Mt Rainier". He knew that if he said it out loud, I would follow through, so, after much planning (having 5 children 9 and under requires a LOT of planning), we decided to do it.

My training really began back in January when I began doing the P90X workout at home. Since finishing that, I have taken up the Insanity DVD workout and finished round one about a month ago. This week, I ran my first 1/2 Marathon...YEAH! My goal was to run it in under 2 hrs, however, I didn't realize just how incredibly hilly the course was and how hot and humid it would be running in Connecticut along the Long Island Sound so early in the morning. Needless to say, I have a goal and have signed up for another 1/2 Marathon in September.

I am currently out east visiting my family and will return to Washington in about a week. My husband is due to return from his latest deployment in a few weeks and then the training will really begin, for both of us. I am excited and nervous all at the same time about this climb. It will be an experience of a lifetime!

Lindsay get's out and hikes!

2010-07-03T15:27:00.001-07:00

This week has been the most hectic week. It’s the last week of school and it seems like training is taking a back seat. I was able to get in one resistance training session on Tuesday and 8 hills in a hill training session on Wednesday, but that was about it. My husband and I finally were able to get out to the mountains for an actual hiking weekend. My pack was about 37 lbs and it certainly felt heavy when I first started out on our hike, but got used to it quickly. Our first hike was 10.4 km with an elevation gain of 590 m. My boots worked out well and I was thankful for having my hiking poles. They helped me steady myself with the weight on my back, especially when climbing over fallen trees and other debris on the trail. By the end of the hike my hips were a little sore, but overall I was impressed at my ability to get through the hike. The next day was just a quick hike up to a lake with a distance of 7 km. My shoulders and hips were a little mad at me when I put my pack on again, but I found it was quite easy to adjust to the weight. This weekend was a start and now the countdown begins...4 more weekends until the climb up Rainier! My husband and I are off to do some back country camping and practice hikes this weekend. We get an extra long weekend with the Canada Day holiday so we should get some pretty good hikes with some more elevation.

Three weeks left for David!

2010-07-02T09:04:00.001-07:00

Beshears Journal Entry - July 2

July 2, 2010

I had an abbreviated training schedule this week, following my climb up to Camp Muir last weekend. I focused on Yoga and stretches and some light walking. I feel really, really good. Now, with three weeks to go, I’ll pick it back up again over the next two weeks, work on putting some extra effort into endurance, and then back off just a little during the last week before orientation day with RMI.

Lindsay's Race!

2010-07-01T09:32:00.001-07:00

The K-100 race this weekend was quite the experience. My leg of the race started off with a hill and climbed about 200m over the 14.1 km distance. Adjusting to the altitude was a little difficult when starting out on a hill, but once the course flattened out for a bit I was able to get into a rhythm and settle into my pace. The scenery was breathtaking and certainly worth the trip. It was so great to finally get out to the mountains to experience some elevation. Our team was 12^th out of 28 mixed teams, which I figure isn’t too bad. The next day I was surprised that I wasn’t that sore, but I attribute this from the training I have been doing. Although I don’t enjoy resistance training there is no way I will stop doing it. I have noticed benefits already! After the run on Saturday, I was able to sneak in a 45 minute bike ride when I got home on Sunday. I’ve also started back into the pool, trying to get in a swim twice a week.

David Heads to Camp Muir!

2010-06-27T12:05:00.000-07:00

Nice work getting up to Muir, David! You picked an awesome day to go up!

June 27, 2010

Made the climb up to Camp Muir yesterday. A great experience overall. I think I’m in good shape for the summit climb in a few weeks, but for one item of note. This was my first climb at altitude. I found that altitude and me are going to have to come to an understanding.

I was doing very well, and from what other climbers along the way were saying, I was on pace to reach Camp Muir in about four hours. But that was not to be. At about 9000 feet (from what another climber said), I really began to feel it. Some of this may have been my pacing (I am very, very bad at that, way too impatient for my own good), and another problem may have been that I was wearing my base layer bottoms, which in the warm weather was sucking the energy from me. But I still believe the main issue was the altitude.

I stopped for a break at an outcropping of rocks where a number of other climbers were stopping. I stayed longer than I should have, because I only felt more fatigued when I started out again. As I began to traverse up that last snow field below the camp, I began to seriously wonder if I was going to make it. That damned camp never seemed to get any closer. I began experimenting with rest step (which I still haven’t figured out). Looking above and below me, I could see that a number of other climbers were having a tough time of it as well, and this actually urged me on.

In the end, due to the long break and the very slow trudging up that last snow field, it took me almost 5 ½ hours to reach Camp Muir, longer than I had hoped.

I stayed there about 45 minutes before heading back down. Once I had descended a ways, I actually felt pretty good again.

Some of that feeling good may have been due to my first experience with glissading. Glissading is very, very cool. I loved it, though some of this joy may have been because of my impatient nature and my desire to get back to my car. I glissaded at every opportunity.

Being a novice at glissading (and at mountain climbing in general), a couple of things I would like to point out to anyone else who has yet to experience glissading down the mountain…

Whatever you do, take any items you may have in your backpack side pockets and safely stow them inside your pack. Especially if it is your very last bottle of water and you are still within sight of Camp Muir and have a long hike down still before you.

Also, take note of the fact that some glissade slides end in the middle of a snow field; snow very soft and very deep. In such situations, the hike back onto the main trail will require more time and effort than you saved.

Still, the descent back to Paradise took me less than two hours and I felt pretty good all the way down.

Okay… a couple of other items to anyone else (like me) doing this for the first time.

First, when applying sun screen, do not forget your ears (ouch). Next, while climbers around me were wearing shorts, I was dressed for the Himalayas. This was my second conditioning climb (the first being Mt. Rose) and I regretted wearing base layer bottoms both times. For me… never ever again. I’ll put them on after I reach Camp Muir.

And a final note, this about being in contact with family. I told my wife that if I had a signal I would call her from Paradise before I started up, though I did warn her that I may not get through. And I didn’t have a signal. Being that I am a beginner at this, she was of course concerned about my climb. While I told that the hike up to Camp Muir was like the Interstate 5 of hikes, she nonetheless had this image of me standing all alone on some snow-swept mountain top where no one would see me when I fell off a cliff. I tried several times to call her on the way up (some have said they had a signal with Verizon), but in the end couldn’t reach her until I was back down and had driven out of the park. She was worried sick.

Make alternate plans. Find a land-line phone at Paradise and call before you go up and when you get back.

A Quick Update From David!

2010-06-19T15:58:00.001-07:00

Beshears Journal Entry - June 18

I worked this week on preparing for my conditioning climb up to Camp Muir next week. I carried 40 lbs on my mountain trail hike and pushed it on the grades, and gave a little extra on the treadmill work and my stair climbs. I’ll keep at it and then back off a little for a couple of days before my little jaunt up the hill.

I’m psyched and ready to go. Wish I was going tomorrow. Let’s do this.

David, we're looking forward to hearing about your trip to Camp Muir! Good luck and have fun out there!

Lindsay Prepares for a Race!

2010-06-18T11:34:00.000-07:00

So, this is going to be a quick blog this week. My husband and I are in a mad panic trying to prepare for our trip to the mountains this weekend to participate in the K-100 relay race. Although we won’t be climbing or doing any hiking it will be good to finally get out to the mountains to experience some altitude. I’ll be running the 4^th leg of the race which involves about a 200m elevation gain over 14 Km. The weather forecast is perfect for the weekend, about 15 degrees with sun and clouds. Aside from that my week of training went well. I was able to get in two sessions of weights and a couple of runs including some hill interval training. That’s it for now – I’ll keep you posted on how the race goes.

Laura is on McKinley!

2010-06-13T15:51:00.000-07:00

Whittaker Mountaineering's Retail Manager, Laura is on her way up Mount McKinley! Her climb arrived at Camp 1 yesterday! Stay tuned in to her climb's status and read their dispatches here!

Laura also took a SPOT tracker with her - so we can follow along as she makes progress on McKinley! Visit our SPOT Adventures page and select the McKinley tab at the top of the Live Map... And you can follow along with several RMI climbs on Rainier too!
*Be sure to select the "Satellite" or "Terrain" feature on the Google Map!

David steps up!

2010-06-11T09:52:00.001-07:00

Beshears Journal Entry 8 - June 11

With another conditioning hike in the near future, David kicks up his training!

June 11, 2010

I’m back on the stairs this week, and I’ve picked it up to 30 flights round trip, 3 times a day, 3 days a week. I was doing 20 flights, but I’m feeling the urge to push it, so I added more and am going at it harder. I still make sure to hit every step, both going up and coming down. I saw how I benefited from that when I made the climb up Mt. Rose. That steep descent from the summit went a lot better for having done the stairs work all these weeks.

I would do more, but I’m doing this during my breaks on the three days that I work at the office, and I can’t be away from my desk for too long…

I added more blocks to the front of my treadmill to give me more incline. I’m back on this 3 days a week as well. I carry a pack on my back and put a light dumb bell in each hand and go at it for an hour. I then move over to the Bowflex and work on that 30 to 40 minutes. Between the two machines, I get a decent workout. Felt good this week, and the regular routine has become a comfortable habit.

I bumped my stomach crunches from 75 up to a 100 count, and I got it in 5 nights this week. I wasn’t planning on going to a 100, but one night after reaching 75 I just kept going. Now I feel like if I was to only do 75 I’d be cheating.

I went out on a 2 hour hike once this week, focused a lot on that section of steep grade. I was hoping to go out twice, but couldn’t get it in. I will be going out again on Monday when my brother-in-law is visiting us. He’s a marathon runner, so I’ll take him out there with me. He hasn’t really done mountain trails, but he definitely does endurance, and I’m hoping to get some pointers from him that I can apply to my own environment. I’m really looking forward to the Camp Muir conditioning climb in a couple of weeks. My first real exposure to altitude.

Lidnsay preps!

2010-06-10T11:21:00.000-07:00

Lindsay is training physically AND mentally! (and be sure to check out her recipe in the previous post! - Thanks, Lindsay!)

This week was a good training week. I am finally feeling like my resistance training is paying off. I’m not as sore as last week and I was able to increase my weight again. My long run on Sunday was 12 Km and it felt really good. I feel stronger in my core and I’m not feeling it as much today, when usually after a long run I wake up a little stiff. Bought my new boots on Friday and can’t wait to get out to try them on some real trails. I’ve never tried Scarpa boots before as I have always hiked in Solomon, so hopefully they work well for my feet. My husband and I bought the rest of our gear that we needed for our climb, including helmets and another set of hiking poles. I have to be honest that I completely look like a dork in my helmet, but I will certainly be more comfortable scrambling now that my head is protected. Our hiking/camping trips have been planned out and I’m getting more excited for the climbs. The only problem is I know that when I start out I am going to question why I do this. I think when climbing a mountain you have to be physically prepared, but if you are not mentally prepared it will be that much harder to attain your goal. I always start out climbs slow and eventually my body adjusts to the strenuous activity. Right now, my motivation for going to the gym at 5:30 am is the fear that my body will not be prepared – that fear keeps me working hard to help my body adjust more quickly. This includes a lot of intervals in my cardio training sessions. I have been reading other blogs and it worries me a bit that I have not been able to get out into the mountains yet, but I keep telling myself that I’ll get there. Half the battle is convincing myself that what I do each time I am in the gym puts me that much closer to the summit and it will get me back down! It still seems like the climb is far away, but it is only a month and a half until August. Better get training :)

Lindsay's Broccoli & Pesto Tagliatelle Recipe!

2010-06-10T11:15:00.000-07:00

Broccoli and Pesto Tagliatelle

Serves 4-6

1 medium potato

1 head of broccoli

A large bunch of fresh basil

Sea salt

1 lb dried tagliatelle pasta

¼ cup green pesto

3 ounces parmesan cheese

-peel and cut the potato into very thin shavings using a peeler

-slice the end off the broccoli stalk and cut little broccoli florets off the head and put them to the side

-halve the thick stock lengthways, then slice thinly

-pick the basil leaves and discard the stalks

-grate the parmesan (if using a block)

-bring a large pot of salted water to a boil

-add the tagliatelle and broccoli stalks and cook according to the package instructions

-2 minutes before the pasta is done, add the florets and potato slices

-drain everything in a colander over a large bowl, reserving some of the cooking water, and return to the pan

-roughly chop half of the bail leaves and add to the pan with the pesto and half the parmesan

-give it all a good stir and if the sauce is too thick for you, add a splash of the cooking water to thin it out a bit

-divide the pasta

-sprinkle over the rest of the cheese and the remaining basil leaves

-serve with some salad

Monica get's down to the wire!

2010-06-07T12:53:00.000-07:00

Moinca is headed off to Denali in one week! Here's her training for this week...

Not much to report in terms of training and preparation... Sunday I hiked heavy for 3 hours. The weight was the least of the problems. We've had a tremendous amount of rain, so it was very humid and slippery. I fell several times, and started musing on the advantages of crampons in mud. The following Saturday was too rainy and muddy, so I took it to the gym and did an hour on the Stairmaster and an hour on the treadmill, inclined 3-30 percent. I used only 60 pounds of weight, and it felt quite manageable. During the work week I did nothing physical, aside from the hour walk/run that my dog gets daily. But at this point those walks feel like a Hawaii vacation.

Other than that, just taking care of things at work so I can leave with nothing hanging over my head, paying bills in advance and grilling everyone I know who has climbed Denali. I have one more full work week, so next weeks emphasis will be on that and trying to rest as much as possible.

David's plans more conditioning...

2010-06-04T09:23:00.000-07:00

Beshears Journal Entry 7 - June 4

David's getting after it! Despite a minor setback from blisters - David is still on track!

June 4, 2010

I worked mostly on the recumbent bike and the Bowflex this week, along with a little Yoga, and let the blisters on the back of my heels finish healing. They are looking and feeling much better, and I should be able to get out on a few two hour hikes this next week. Also next week, back onto the stairs and the treadmill.

If the weather is okay, I will probably be going on my next full day conditioning climb (this time up to Camp Muir) on June 24^{th (}midweek, putting in leave time for that day); but I’ll also try to keep that weekend open, just in case the weather isn’t so kind. I also just heard that there is still 11 feet of snow at the trailhead. Hmmm. Think I’ll talk with RMI about conditions up there and how best to deal with it.

Lindsay hits the gym!

2010-06-03T11:06:00.000-07:00

Well, the weather took a turn for the worse on the weekend. How about a snow storm to really get you motivated? There was enough snow to stay on the ground for a day or two, but June is here so hopefully it is the last time I see the white stuff until I am heading up Rainier. Watching my husband run in the Calgary Half Marathon over the weekend certainly helped get me in the mood to really hit the pavement. The winning time in the men’s half was just over 1 hour and 9 minutes. Definitely not something I will be able to accomplish, but very inspiring to keep at it. Day 2 exercises are starting to grow on me. I increased the amount of weight this week to see if this would improve how I felt about the exercises last week. The cable machine was being used so I modified my dead lifts to just using a 40 lb straight bar (3 sets, 15 reps/set). For the dirt digger exercise I used a 25 lb dumbbell weight, but I think I will be increasing this to 30 lbs next week (3 sets, 20 reps – 10/side – alternating). The assisted pull-ups I am using 60 lbs (the more weight you use, the more assistance you have) (3 sets, 12 reps/set). I’m only using 12.5 lb dumbbells while doing my lunges on a bench as this exercise really burns after running 6 Km on the treadmill (3 sets, 12 reps/leg). I used the 25 lb dumbbell for the oblique dead lifts, but I found more weight is needed to really work my obliques. As for the nutrition side, I have tried 3 new recipes, broccoli and pesto tagliatelle, chicken fajitas, and Moroccan stewed fish and shrimp over couscous. Each recipe was really easy and quick to make, plus you don’t need a lot to feel full. Very yummy if anyone gets a chance to try them.

Thanks, Lindsay! Stay tuned - hopefully we can get our hands on one of Lindsay's recipes...

David summits Mt. Rose!

2010-05-28T10:34:00.000-07:00

Beshears Journal Entry 6 - May 27

David takes his training to the hills! Keep up the hard work David!

May 27, 2010

This week I finally made the climb up to the summit of Mt. Rose, near Lake Cushman. It’s about 4200 ft to the top, and it is all uphill; every step. There is no down, there is no level. It is all up.

I was told that with a light pack it should take 3 to 4 hours to make it to the top. I decided to go a little heavier, about 40lbs, and set off from the trailhead at 8:40AM. I came up on some deep snow about two thirds of the way up, much deeper than I had been told. It must have recently snowed. This slowed me down quite a bit, but I still made the summit at about 11:30. I sat through snow flurries while eating my lunch.

While the climb was fairly steep most of the way, and I did push myself, I didn’t have any problems physically. However, I did find myself a bit short of breath throughout much of the 3 hour ascent. It wasn’t so bad that I couldn’t speak in normal conversation (if there had been anyone to talk to), but it is still something I need to work on.

Now for the bad news… my climbing boots (not what I will be wearing on the Rainier climb) have always done me right. Not on this climb… perhaps because it was all uphill, or perhaps I had laced them up differently, or… I don’t know. But about two hours into the climb I felt blisters forming on the back of my heels. I was starting into deep snow by now, and I chose to ignore the forming blisters, planning on dealing with them once I made the summit. I had only taken two very brief breaks for a swallow of water up to that point and wanted to keep pushing. Big mistake. I should have dealt with it as soon as I felt them forming. Because I waited, they are now much worse. Sitting at the summit, I took out my first aid kit (one of the ten essentials), and treated the wounds.

The descent down the mountain was fine so far as the blisters were concerned. As it was all downhill, so the pressure was off the back of my heels. As with the ascent, I pushed hard going down. Again I was a little short of breath, but not too bad. It wasn’t until I got close to the trailhead at the bottom that I began to feel the muscles on the front of my legs, and I was glad that I had spent so much time pushing myself on the stairs (up and down). Getting back to the car, I took some time to stretch before leaving. That evening and the following day I put a little extra effort into my Yoga. Feeling fine…

Unfortunately, I have the blisters on the back of my heels to deal with. I won’t be able to do any serious work on the treadmill or the stairs for a few days, and I may push out my next conditioning climb (planning on Camp Muir next). I have been able to work on the exercise bike and the Bowflex, but I really need to get back out on the trails and push hard on the treadmill. Very frustrating, and I’m angry with myself.

Lindsay keeps on training for Rainier!

2010-05-27T09:42:00.000-07:00

Okay, so I have already skipped a resistance workout...but I have a good excuse. I ran the Track and Field meet at my elementary school so I was unable to make it to the gym. But, it is a new week so I am right back into the training sessions. My run on Sunday was only 6 Km, but it felt good. I’m still really feeling my muscles from last Tuesday’s workout. Those resistance exercises really seem to be working if they are able to isolate my core muscles that well. Had an unfortunate mishap on Wednesday’s bike ride; an unmarked pot hole that extended most of the way across two lanes was something I could not avoid while in the middle of an interval. I made it to the next intersection before I realized that I had a flat...a really good 15 minute ride and a 50 minute walk home, but at least the weather was good! Can’t wait for some good training sessions this week – weather is supposed to be good and I just realized that there’s only 4 more weeks until my husband and I hit the mountains for some much needed hiking and scrambling! I’ll keep everyone updated on how the day 2 exercises go – see if they are as good as the day 1 exercises I mentioned in my last post. My birthday gift today was a cook book – gotta love being married to a dietician. I have gone through the book and some of the carb and protein dishes look awesome. The book is Jamie’s Food Revolution – will let everyone know if I find some good recipes. Happy training!

Monica keeps it consistent...

2010-05-23T12:32:00.000-07:00

It's getting closer to Monica's climb! Stay tuned to see how she changes her training as she gets closer to climbing McKinley!

This week's training was a bit like groundhog week in that it was very similar to last week. Sunday was a 3.25 hour hike with 66 pounds, repeating a few more hills than usual. Saturday was pouring rain, so I was on the Stairmaster for 90 minutes with 70 pounds, at a quick pace. I was so soaked with sweat that when I went to the grocery store after, they asked if I got caught in the rain. Monday, Wednesday and Friday were Crossfit days, and were typically grueling. Other than that I've been fiddling with my gear endlessly, and got all my food figured out. In general, I'm going to be slowing down a bit physically. Next week will be the last week of CrossFit, and I also plan to get some more hikes in. The first week and a half of June I will just hike, then I will rest for a week before I'm on my way!

Laura hits the trail...

2010-05-22T09:21:00.000-07:00

Week #8

5-19-10

With rising temperatures this past week it was back to the alpine boots and the pack. A pal and I got out for some hiking in Mt. Rainier National Park. We hit the Rampart Ridge Trail out of Longmire two days in a row. This is a 4.6 mile loop with 1420 feet of elevation gain. It was nice to do this with a heavy pack and boots a couple days in a row. I also did some more P90X abs and an arm workout tape. Finally, back to yoga on Monday evening.

The trip is coming up quickly…I can hardly believe we are a good portion of the way through May. I have mostly everything in order for the climb, so now it is down to coming up with some good lunch food ideas and other small preparations. Exciting times to come soon!!

David's training hits the trail...

2010-05-21T09:15:00.000-07:00

RE: Beshears Journal Entry 5 - May 21

As David's climb dates approach, he's switching up his training routine...

May 21, 2010

Worked the treadmill 3 times this week, worked the stairs 3 times this week, went on my outdoor hike one day. The treadmill work is about an hour at a brisk walk and set to incline, and I put blocks under the front in order to increase the incline. The stair work continues to be 20 flights three times a day at a very brisk pace, and I’m carrying my computer backpack filled with heavy books (I’m in my office building after all…). The hike is about two hours on uneven terrain while carrying a pack with the 10 essentials and a couple of free weights.

I managed to use the Bowflex twice this week, focusing on upper body and some abdominal, and even got on the exercise bike once for about half an hour. I did a little free weight work several evenings, as well as stomach crunches and some pull-ups.

I’m feeling very good physically and mentally, but there are two things I would really like to include in my routine over the next weeks. One is to really push at my limits while out on my weekly hikes, and the other is to get out on that full day uphill climb that I’ve yet to do.

So first up I’m going to focus on one section of that weekly outdoor hike. While there are a lot of ups and downs and twists and switchbacks on the trail, there is one stretch that is steeper and a more rugged grade than most. Unfortunately, it just doesn’t take me that long to make it up to the top. So from now on, when I get to that section of the hike I’m going to take half an hour and round-trip the slope a half a dozen times before moving on. That should put some oomph into the morning.

And I am I’m really looking forward to the two full-day climbs that I have coming up. I have my Mt. Rose climb this weekend and the Camp Muir climb that I’m hoping to get in June 12^th or 13^th.

I’ll let you know how all this goes.

Monica tests herself...

2010-05-20T09:37:00.000-07:00

With a month to go until Monica heads to McKinley, she's rounding out her physical training with some knot and prusik practice...

This week was another good week, devoid of aches, pains or pathological exhaustion. Sunday and Saturday were nice 3 hour hikes with 70 pounds. During the week I was back to CrossFit, thus back to "fire breather" status. For these 6AM classes I was the only one showing up, so basically I had all the attention from the trainer, meaning I couldn't cheat and shave any reps, couldn't take any breaks without him noticing. The week involved a lot of running, high jumping, rowing, lifting, pushing, throwing, pulling and squatting. I finished all the workouts with respectable times and loads.

On Saturday I also reviewed knot tying, which is not an intuitive task for me. About a month ago I had reviewed them and thought I had them down, but now it was like I'd never learned them at all. So, I committed them to memory again and will have to do some everyday, since in case of emergency it would be inappropriate to pull out a laminated instruction sheet. I also rigged some cordellettes into prusik loops on a rope hanging from a tree branch, and practiced ascending the rope, simulating climbing out of the crevasse. It worked great and I was having a blast except I then realized I had no way to get down! The prusiks were under tension so I couldn't ease them down, and my harness was under tension, so I couldn't clip out from my carabiner. I really wasn't too far off the ground, but for a few minutes I hung there, thinking this would be a really absurd way to go. I had no cell phone, no ladder nearby, and none of my neighbors were around. After much sweat and effort, I untied my harness and unclipped my leg loops and fell to the ground with no grace or dignity whatsoever. The good thing is now I know my harness and prusiks will hold me no matter what, so if I fall in a crevasse I am confident I won't fall off the rope and can get myself out. One month to go! Woohoo!

Lindsay kicks it up a notch!

2010-05-19T09:27:00.000-07:00

Lindsay is using other ambitious goals, like a triathlon and a 100 mile race for training for Rainier! What a great way to stay motivated!

My first triathlon under my belt and now the K-100 is the next race on my list. The tri went pretty well and is certainly something I will continue to do. I have a 16 km leg of a relay race that I have to prepare for in the next month so I have adjusted my training schedule so it accommodates for this race. I also took some time this weekend with my husband to put together a training schedule that specifically targets muscle groups we will need for the climb.

Using some information off of the Whittaker Mountaineering Training and Conditioning webpage, we were able to come up with a schedule that would work best for each of our requirements based on our current fitness level. My schedule essentially looks like the following: Mondays is an optional swim (I enjoy it so I chose to keep it in my schedule), Tuesdays I do resistance training (Day 1 exercises) and a 4-6 Km tempo run, Wednesdays are my bike days, Thursdays are resistance training (Day 2 exercises) and I play softball in the evening, Fridays are my off day, Saturdays are steady runs (4-6 Km), and Sundays are Long Slow Distance runs, usually 10 + Km. Any days where the weather is bad or I just feel like I can’t get my workouts in, I have a back-up called EA Sports Active, for the Wii. It will at least allow me to tailor my workout to upper body, lower body, or whole body depending on what workout I am missing. I might add that it is fun and surprisingly allows me to work up a pretty good sweat.

Today was my first try at the Day 1 resistance exercises and they were not as cumbersome as I thought they would be (I am not a fan of working out in the gym, especially near the free weights). My day 1 exercises are the following: overhead barbell squats, medicine ball torso twists, medicine ball slant board curls, hip flexor slant board curls with a free weight between the legs for added resistance, and planks (any variation)(all of the descriptions can be found under Training and Conditioning). Most require 2-3 sets, with 12-15 reps. I have started with 10 torso twists per side and will adjust this as it becomes easy for me. I’ll provide details on the day 2 exercises after I have had a chance to try them out. Happy training!

Thanks, Lindsay! Keep up the awesome training and congratulations on your first triathlon!

David keeps going and going!

2010-05-15T10:05:00.000-07:00

Here's more of David's training for Rainier...

May 14, 2010

I’m just about back up to speed this week after being a bit down last week. I did the stair climbing three days, did the treadmill three days. I also got out for a hike one day. Didn’t get to the Bowflex as much as I’d like, but I’ll soon get that back into my routine. Life can be a blur, and it’s so easy for things to not get done.

I’m getting more comfortable with the Yoga. I’m not really all that skilled at it yet, but I do feel good. After some trial and error with several DVDs on Netflix, I found what I think to be the right program and right instructor for me.

Because of my recent down-time, I’m a little off schedule and still haven’t taken my first full-day conditioning climb. I’d like to know where I am on the endurance scale, and a full day climbing a mountain should be a good indicator, and should help me target what I need to work on. So… I’m hoping for Mount Rose in the next couple of weeks and Camp Muir in late June.

In the meantime, I’ll continue with the nearby hiking trails. Several in the area are rugged enough to keep it interesting, and when I put some weight in my pack and get out there and push myself, I feel like I’m accomplishing something. And to be honest, the hiking trails are easy to get to. Twenty minutes and I’m there. No planning, just go…

Monica, recovered.

2010-05-13T15:12:00.000-07:00

Monica is back on track this week! And she's got some really great advice on food choices! Thanks, Monica!

This week felt great! It was kind of a "recovery" week, in that I didn't do CrossFit. I caught up on much needed sleep and loaded up on calories. I hiked Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, for 2-4 hours, varying weights of 63-70 pounds.
On the hikes I always go through the same process. The first 10 minutes are undeniably miserable. My gluteals, hamstrings and calves are screaming, I can't catch my breath, and my balance is quite goofy. This is when I start bargaining with myself. Thoughts like "I've been working really hard, if I just do an hour that will be fine." Or "If I don't do any hills but keep it as flat as possible, that will be fine". Self affirmations always seem really trite and shallow, and I tend to respond better to self humiliation. So telling myself "don't be such a weenie" or "man up" usually gets me out of it. This is also when self doubt sets in and I question my abilities. Such as "I'm the only female on this trip" (=weak), or "I'm in my mid forties, what am I thinking?" (=weak). However, invariably after the first hill, my breathing gets rhythmic, my muscles are warmed up, the pack feels like a part of my back, and I'm able to look around me. This is when I realize how lucky I am to live in such a beautiful place and that there's really nothing else I'd rather be doing. I start to feel really strong, especially when I remember several years ago training for my first Mt. Rainier climb, using about half the weight and feeling worse. I also seem to have found my fifteen minutes of fame, as several times people I've never met cheer me on or ask when my big day is. I guess anyone hauling a huge pack sticks out, and I'm up here enough that I'm pretty recognizable.
These hikes are when I test out the different foods that will come with me. As with all my climbs, the biggest winners are Corn Nuts, Gummi Bears, Heath Bars, Lara Bars and Beef Jerky. Questionable are the Rice Krispie treats. I love that they're so light, but unfortunately they give a sudden blast of sugar and such a rapid crash that I'm not sure they'll make the cut, unless I eat something slower burning with them. What most definitely did not make the cut were Sardines, Kippered Herrings and Smoked Oysters. Yuck. After opening the tins, trying a few bites and dry heaving, I was then left with oily, stinky tins of nastiness and no plastic bag to store them in. Luckily my canine garbage disposal was more than happy to take care of that problem. I also try out different drink mixes. Coming with me will be Cytomax, Emergen-C, Propel and Kool-Aid. Gatorade and Crystal Light did not make the cut for me. The relationship between food and performance has become very clear. If I'm not eating enough or well enough, I definitely feel sluggish. Those break time refuelings are so important, and I hope I can keep that in mind on the mountain when my appetite is typically zero and even a Toblerone bar sounds disgusting.

David incorporates yoga into his training!

2010-05-13T15:09:00.000-07:00

Beshears Journal Entry 3 - May 7

David is continuing to prepare for Rainier...He's changing up his routine with some yoga!

May 7th.

I was at a two day TBI conference this past week and decided to take advantage of a yoga workshop at the end of the last day. As this was a tbi conference, there was some focus on those with disabilities, tbi in particular, and I thought this might be something that I could do with my son.

Hatha is a very relaxed form of yoga, focuses a lot on alignment, stretching and breathing, and is something you can do while seated; perfect for my son and me, as he’s still in the wheelchair. Since taking the workshop, I have begun to integrate this into my own daily workouts, and I’m already feeling a difference. A few minutes of Hatha before any other routine, and a few minutes afterward, and my body just feels better, takes the exercises better. I have also been trying to develop a habit of doing some of these moves while sitting in front of a computer, but I seem to get lost in my work for hours at a time. I should put an hourly reminder on my calendar, but I’m afraid that having it continually popping up would just bug me. Maybe just a low-tech sticky note on the monitor… I’ll do that right now.

I came down with some sort of flu bug the other day, but I found that I was still able to at least take an easy walk on the treadmill. I set it to slow, turned on the television, and just walked… Dawn of the Dead style…

Feeling better now, need to get back into it. I plan to go out on a long hike this weekend, dressed out in a lot of the gear.

Lindsay's training for Rainier!

2010-05-12T16:09:00.000-07:00

Here's a look at another climber's training... Lindsay is training for a 4-day Rainier climb in August.

Climbing Mount Rainier is the latest adventure to preoccupy my busy life. Why would I do this? My answer to that would be "who wouldn't!" After reading Ed Viestur's book "No Shortcuts to the Top", both my husband and I realized that climbing Mount Rainier had to be on our list of things to do. Now that it is May, I am starting to get the itch to get out and climb. The only problem with this is I live in Edmonton. Not exactly a hilly place so training can be a challenge. I find I have always needed some kind of external motivation to keep me focused. As I am writing this blog, I realize that I need a lot of motivation...so the first step to committing to climbing Rainier has been to hook up with the Canadian Heart and Stroke Foundation. My husband and I are raising money to support the organization which certainly gives me an added incentive to want to train and be prepared for the climb. Friends and family are following our progress so I have to make sure I am ready!

So, how do I train? Right now, I'm gearing up for my first triathlon next weekend. In the summer, I set a goal of doing my first triathlon this spring and thought it would be perfect training for the climb. One thing I have to work on is getting enough resistance training into my schedule. I'm not a fan of weights, but I know they are really important for being prepared for climbs. I bike at least twice a week, swim twice a week and run twice a week. Softball just started on Thursday, so a little cross-training helps too! Last Sunday I was able to get out for a 35 min bike ride, Monday was a 500m swim, Tuesday was a brick workout (40 min bike/25 min run) (which I did at the gym because it was snowing out – yes, it is May), Wednesday was 30 min on the bike, Thursday I played softball, Friday was an off day, Saturday amounted to an arms and core resistance training session and Sunday will be a long run (usually over 10 Km). Most of my workouts I do solo, but I like to change it up by training with my husband. I guess we will see how training goes this week as I prepare for my race. Cheers!

Laura Earns Some Turns

2010-05-08T16:05:00.000-07:00

Week #7 Training Blog

May 8, 2010

Sorry alpine boots, but it snowed quite a bit here on Mt. Rainier this past week so it was time to get back on skis. A couple friends and I headed into Mt. Rainier National Park to do some skiing in the Tatoosh on Tuesday. The conditions were great so we did a couple hours of touring overall to gain a couple laps on the apron portion of Lane Peak, then moving on to ski a feature called The Fly. The next day we headed back into the park to head up a bit past Camp Muir to ski a couloir feature to the side of Cathedral Gap. This was a nice long day of touring and skiing for impeccable conditions. Even the regularly wind-scoured sections coming down the normal route from Camp Muir were perfectly powdery. Perhaps a few pictures to come!

More of Monica's Denali Training...

2010-05-05T11:57:00.000-07:00

4/18-24
This week started out great, and ended with a crash. Sunday the 18th I got up very early, and my dog and I set out into the Boise foothills for 3 hours and ten minutes, with 70 lbs on my back. It was a gorgeous day, and I saw very few people. It ended up being 80 degrees, so I was glad I started early. Monday was CrossFit. The workout was called “Tabata something else”. Tabatas are basically intervals, and it was as many repetitions as possible in 8 rounds of pull-ups, push ups, sit ups and air squats. We do as many as possible for 20 seconds, rest for 10 seconds. 8 rounds of each. Surprisingly challenging.
Tuesday I got back outside with 70 pounds for 2 hours. Felt great!
Wednesday CrossFit was “Burp and Row”. For rowing we use the Concept 2 Rower. Great little piece of equipment!! Burpees consist of jumping down into a squat, thrusting your legs into a push up position, doing a push up, jumping back into a squat and jumping up at least 10 inches. Form gets really poor as you get tired. We rowed 1000 meters, did 20 burpees. Rowed 750 meters, 40 burpees. Rowed 500 meters, did 60 burpees. Rowed 250 meters, did 80 burpees. This is, of course, timed. Despite cussing at my trainer at around repetition 68 of the last round, I finished in 29:36.
Thursday was my day off. I had scheduled a Gyrotonics session, which I try to do about every 6 weeks. Some people call it yoga for dancers, and it is one of these mind-body forms of exercise kind of like Pilates. Unlike Pilates, it uses 3-dimensional, circular and rotational movements. I love this, especially now, since all this hiking has me in a repetitively linear, sagittal movement pattern. I left feeling so relaxed, lithe and graceful.
Friday was back to CrossFit. The workout was: 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 repetitions of Deadlifts, Bench Press and Cleans. I kept it on the lighter side, since my goal is to get up that mountain, not be a CrossFit queen. So, my deadlifts were 160 pounds, bench presses 70 pounds, cleans 75 pounds. I tried to be very careful with my form, since Deadlifts in particular are great for blowing out lumbar discs.
Saturday was training hike. It was miserable. My poor back was so sore I could barely stand up straight. So, I loaded up 70 pounds and kept at it for just under 3 hours, but covered very little ground. It was not good. Tomorrow I will see how I feel and either go lighter or take the day off and heal up. Woohoo!
-Monica

Laura Test-Hauls a Sled!

2010-05-01T08:37:00.000-07:00

Week #6 McKinley Training
April 30, 2010

This week brought a few new exercises into the mix. Given that there was a bit of snow left on the Mount Tahoma Trails just outside of town, I decided to try adding a sled to the training weight. I used my boots with the snowshoes for practice, finding that the heel-raiser bar is definitely key when hauling a fair bit of weight. I filled the sled with a bunch of snow so that I could ditch the weight on the way down. I figure with the pack and the sled filled with snow I likely had about 100lbs total. Needless to say, my hike in the direction of High Hut was a slow one. This was definitely helpful so that I could get used to the different ways that the sled pulled on the hips.

I also got in a standard trip to the gym equipped with elliptical training, weights, abs, and a few episodes of one of my favorite tv shows on dvd. I was sure to do a bit of yoga as well.

Thanks to a tip from a friend, I found another long and steady trail out of town to take the pack and boots up for a tour. I have been trying either short and quick hikes on it if I don’t have much time, or long and more moderate pacing if I do have a bit more time to work with.

At the suggestion of another pal, I tried a new ab routine to switch up my old moves. It was the P 90 X ab ripper series…comes with a high recommendation. I had never done any of those P 90 X workouts but this one was great. Well, happy weekend to all!

More of David's Training

2010-05-01T08:18:00.000-07:00

April 30

My exercise room training went fine this week, got in my workout each day that I was home. One day I turned on the baseball game and spent a couple of hours in there; an hour on the treadmill, an hour on the Bowflex, some free weights and cool down.

I’m off Mondays. I always make it a point to go into the exercise room at 2:00 and watch MSNBC while doing a few miles on the treadmill. I got that in. Fridays I work at home. I try to do half an hour in the exercise room in the morning and another half hour in the afternoon. This week I got the morning in, spent it on the Bowflex, but didn’t get the afternoon. That happens a lot.

Most evenings I do free weights while watching the news, and every night I do stomach crunches. I got these in all but two nights.

On the three days a week I work in Olympia I do stair climbing (currently 20 flights three times a day). I missed two days this week because I was at a training seminar. Fortunately the facility we stayed in had an exercise room and I did get some time on a treadmill. I went for a walk in the morning before breakfast.

Now for the weird thing that happened this week… For months I’ve been going on outdoor hikes once or twice a month. There are some rugged trails nearby. I wear a pack loaded with the ten essentials and some weights and I get a really good workout.

This past weekend I was scheduled instead for my first full day conditioning climb up a nearby mountain. How would I handle seven hours?

But this also meant unpredictable weather, and because of recent snowfall some white stuff up near the top. On my half-day excursions, if the weather is bad I simply work out in the exercise room. And in any event I’m never that far from the car. Not so here. In this instance, “conditioning climb” would also mean wet weather and seeing how equipment holds up. It’s like a full field test.

There’s the problem…

I’ve been accumulating gear the last few months. I have my base layer, trekking poles, sleeping bag, socks, gaiters, all three sets of gloves, all the head gear, and the ten essentials. But a lot of that other stuff? The expensive stuff that I figured I would only use on the Rainier climb? That’s what rent lists are for. I hadn’t thought I would need the parka, shell jacket, shell pant, insulating layer pant, any of that…

But if you’re going on a hike like the one this had turned into, you’re going to need an outer layer beyond simple raingear, not the rubberized stuff. And no cotton clothes. No jeans and a sweatshirt. This is like the Rainier climb.

I have to make a choice. I can go on as before, and extend my half-day hikes to full day and test my endurance that way. This is what I had initially planned to do. But if I want to really turn a conditioning climb into field tests, I’ll need to transfer some of the items on the rent list over to the buy list.

Well, I want take another shot at Mt. Rose in a couple of weeks. And I want to hike up to Camp Muir next month. So… I’m going to buy the outer layer stuff. And maybe I’ll start dressing the part even on my half-days, lose the jeans and sweatshirt, go with the synthetic stuff for all my hikes.

Monica's Denali Training

2010-04-30T09:12:00.000-07:00

Here is Monica's first journal - She's training for her Denali climb in June.

Fifty two more days! I’ve been planning on this for so long, but now that it’s so close, my head is spinning. I officially signed up for Denali on 8/31, figuring if I did it sooner rather than later, I’d have more time to get ready. This is something I’d thought about back when I first climbed Mt. Rainier. I loved the idea of being on a mountain for that long, and I also loved the idea of overcoming such a physical, emotional and mental challenge. For me, climbing is when I can calm my mind. I don’t think about anything going on at home, and think only about what’s happening at the present and putting one foot in front of the other. The thought of being in that state of mind for almost a month sounded fantastic. Plus, let’s face it… the “wow’s” and high fives I get when people hear I’m doing this are kind of fun.
My training has consisted of CrossFit and hiking with a weight vest or pack. I’ve been doing CrossFit for quite awhile and absolutely love it. I thrive on the sheer intensity of it, the functionality, the variance and the fact that it is slightly competitive. A lot of CrossFit is like Mountain Climbing. When you don’t think you can possibly do one more repetition or run any more is a lot like when you feel you just can’t take another step. But then you do it, and you really feel like you accomplished something. It’s also amazing to see what the human body is capable of doing. Some of their workouts sound so impossible that I consider walking out. Once I signed up for Denali, I was doing CrossFit 4-5 mornings per week and using a 40 pound weight vest 1-2 times per week. My weight vest use was either on the Stair Climber (simulated staircase) or outside in the hills.
In January, I cut down to CrossFit 3 mornings a week, and hiking with the pack 2-3 times per week for 1-2 hours. I also upped my pack weight to 56 pounds. The biggest thing that happened in January was getting a new pack. When I jumped to 56 pounds I was so uncomfortable I thought of giving up. The pack was digging into my shoulders and not only felt heavy, but was downright painful. I then had the bright idea of checking out the Xenon Osprey, which RMI recommends for women. The salesperson fit me for it, and said I was a “small”, which shocked me, since I’m a chronically medium type of gal. I guess despite my height, I have a fairly short torso, and my other pack was sliding down my hips, rather than on top of my hips. When I finally loaded it up, I was in heaven. It fit right over my hips and took so much pressure off my shoulders. It also had a narrower harness, so rather than feeling like the shoulder straps were dislocating my shoulder joint, it was farther in towards my sternum.
I quickly got used to 56 pounds, and have been jumping up every month. Much of March and all of April I’ve been using 70 pounds for most of my hikes, lasting usually 3 hours. If I’m extremely tired or sore, I’ll bring it down to 63 pounds. I don’t plan on going any heavier than 70, because I’m pretty much carrying half my body weight, and I can feel my joints and vertebrae compressing. Obviously, and injury at this point would be devastating!!!

Thanks for the update, Monica! Check back soon to read more about Monica's training!

Training to Climb...

2010-04-28T09:09:00.000-07:00

With both the McKinley and Rainier climbing seasons just around the corner, I'm sure most of you are dialed into your training. We're following a few climbers as they prepare for their 2010 ascents - they've got excellent training routines and are great examples of climbers who are preparing to be in the best shape of their lives!

Here is the first journal from David - who is preparing to climb Mount Rainier on a 4-day RMI climb.
beshears first journal

April 23, 2010

I’m 53 years old and have spent the last 25 years sitting in front of a computer. Why would I suddenly decide to climb a mountain? Well, it all came about as a result of my son being injured in the war back in 2007 (traumatic brain injury, spinal injuries). I set a goal that he and I were going to climb Rainier come 2010. He was in a vegetative state at the time.

Come November 2009, my son is a lot better but I can see that he’s not going to be ready. I’m afraid that if I tell him “that’s okay, we’ll go next year”, that I’ll be saying that to him every year. I can’t give that to him. Instead I decide to do this first one in his name, and we’ll keep pushing to make him ready for 2011. And if come the next year he’s still not ready, I’ll do the climb alone again, again in his name; and the next year, and the next, until he makes the climb with me. He’s as competitive as I am. It’ll happen.

So I signed up for the July 23 – 26 climb. Good thing I didn’t wait too much longer. Those July slots go fast. By the beginning of December, I think they were mostly filled.

At that time, I was few pounds overweight (okay, twenty) and while I always tried to do the right thing, I never managed to stick with any exercise program for very long. I had a little over half a year to get into the best shape of my life.

I had turned one room of our house into an exercise room for our son’s physical therapy. He still wasn’t able to use it much, but I sure could. It has a treadmill, a recumbent bike, a Bowflex machine and some free weights. Also, my office building in Olympia has five flights of stairs. I could certainly do something with that.

I hung a whiteboard up in my exercise room. On it I drew up a graph. I listed: Treadmill, Stairs, Bike, Bowflex, Outdoor Hike, Stomach Crunches, Free Weights. I gave each a quantity or a time, and a point value, and set total points required for a month.

I decided that I would start easy and allow room to increase the quantity of each item with each passing month, and increase the total points required for each month. For instance, last December I only needed to go on the treadmill for 30 minutes at a brisk pace to earn 100 points. For the stairs, I had to climb 15 flights (5 flights 3 times) three times day (for 45 total), at a comfortable walk. For my outdoor hike (rugged nearby trails), 90 minutes with a light pack. To earn my requisite number of points for a month, I would have to do a couple of the exercises just about every day, though I would take an occasional day off.

It is now coming on the end of April. I’ve been at it three and a half months, and doing pretty good. The variety helped. Having a television hanging in the exercise room was a necessity. Competing with myself and the whiteboard scores was a necessity. I now use the treadmill for 60 minutes at a very brisk pace, but always keep one foot on the tread, incline set and I wear a weighted pack, four times a week. I now run the stairs (making sure I hit every step), 20 flights round trip three times a day (60 total / day), three days a week. My hikes are 2 hours, very brisk pace, carrying 50lbs in my pack. I’m doing 75 stomach crunches in 60 seconds.

I have three months to go. I want to increase endurance. And I will be adding in three full-day conditioning climbs. These will help me monitor how close to being ready I actually am…

Much more to come,

David

If you want to know more about David and his son's story, check out this article in a local newspaper.

Check back soon for more journals, advice & training inspiration!

The Outdoor Athlete

2010-04-15T11:49:00.000-07:00

One of my biggest challenges when it comes to training is staying motivated. I tend to get bored with a routine pretty quickly, so I'm constantly looking for new workouts and changing up my training program. Not only does changing up your routine help keep you interested and inspired to keep training, it's good for your body too! When your body becomes used to a specific task, you'll eventually hit a plateau and the exercise will loose its effectiveness.

I've read all the latest fitness magazines and surfed the web for ways to spice up my workouts - but it was hard for me to find new or non-recycled information. Recently, I came across an excellent training book... The Outdoor Athlete by Courtenay and Doug Schurman. I love how specific this book is - it's not a generalized overview for training, it actually focuses on specific outdoor pursuits. I'm new on the mountain biking scene and I was looking for training tips on how to strengthen my quadriceps for the grueling uphill climbs on a bike and I also knew I needed to improve my balance. This book actually specifically covers training for mountain biking adventures! It lays out a week by week routine, focusing on muscles or movements that are specific to certain outdoor pursuits. The workouts change every few weeks and intensify as your adventure approaches.

If you're training for a 3 day climb of Rainier, this book has you covered! How about an expedition to McKinley? Yep! There's a specific training routine just for you in this book! It's perfect for anyone looking for training tips and routines for mountaineering. You'll learn how to train specific muscle groups that you'll be using while climbing and how to balance cardio workouts with strength training. This book is a must-have for anyone who is looking to improve their performance in the mountains - or anyone who is simply looking to change up their exercise routine!

*Click on the image if you want to purchase this fantastic book!

Week Four of Laura's Training

2010-04-09T08:22:00.000-07:00

This past week I did a few different things to train. Crystal Mountain up here in Washington had a big snow day, so I hit the slopes. I skied hard all day following one of my fast skier pals, did a couple hikes to some fun lines, and kept up the pace. I was definitely a bit sore the next day, but was sure to train again to get the muscles conditioned for multiple days on. I used the hill in town to do a couple quick laps with my pack weighing about 50lbs. I also wore my boots to get a feel for spots that may be bothering me, test out the socks I want to wear, and get the lacing right for both up and down hill. Since I knew that I was only planning on two laps, I tried to hike as quickly as I could uphill for those laps. Afterwards, more abs! The day after that, it was time for more gym action after work for some brief exercise. I just wanted to get the pack on and move for a bit. I did the elliptical, weights, abs routine and headed home. Have a good day!

Week Three of Laura's Training

2010-04-07T08:10:00.000-07:00

Well, this week was a bit slow on the training front as I went back to Minnesota and Chicago to visit the family. It was a great trip for sure and it worked out well because my uncle has a pass to the YMCA. I tagged along for his workout and was able to get about an hour of exercise. I started off on the elliptical to get the heart rate up. I have found myself starting at a medium resistance to warm up for a bit. Then I will bump up to a higher resistance and try to go at a steady difficult pace. I usually cool down for a few minutes back at that medium resistance as well. I was also able to do an abdominal workout and some weightlifting. I finished up with a foam roller on the legs and on the back to loosen up my leg muscles and my back. I really like the foam roller and find that it helps my muscles be less sore the day after a workout. Ciao!

Week Two of Laura's Training

2010-03-24T08:50:00.000-07:00

This past week brought some nice weather out on Mt. Rainier, so I decided to go for a ski tour. I wanted to go up to Camp Muir to get 4,600 ft of elevation gain. I loaded up the pack with a fair bit of weight (around 40lbs) to practice carrying a larger load than a normal trip to Muir for an extended period of time. I figured that I would try to keep an average pace (up to Muir in less than 4 hours) with that amount of weight. Since I wanted to have a fun ski down with less than 40lbs on my back, to create the weight to carry I put a couple garbage bags filled with snow into the bottom of the pack. This way, when I got up to Muir I could quickly shed the majority of the weight that I carried uphill and have a more lightweight ski down without leaving anything up on the mountain. I also figured this would be nice in the event of bad whether or needing to suddenly shed weight to get up more quickly, I could if necessary. This worked out well with no leaking from the big snowball in my bag.

I also got some yoga in a couple times this week. Yesterday, I went to the gym for some time on the elliptical. I put 50lbs in the pack, tossed in a DVD and used the elliptical on high resistance. This was obviously fairly slow moving but got the legs and hips feeling the workout. I also did an abdominal routine as well as various weight exercises. I finished off the time at the gym with an additional bit on the elliptical. More to come later!

Laura is training for McKinley!

2010-03-18T08:20:00.000-07:00

We're following our employee, Laura as she trains to climb Mount McKinley! Check back for weekly updates on Laura's training routine and progress!

3-14-10

I found out the other day that I am going to be able to join the June 8^th McKinley Expedition with RMI! Needless to say, I am totally excited. I have been itching to get up to Alaska, and to have the opportunity to climb McKinley has been a dream of mine for a while. With the trip approaching quickly, my mind has shifted towards training and preparation. I would say that I am in decent shape after a season of skiing, ski touring, and having a summit of Rainier under my belt this winter. However, the thought of carrying a significantly heavier pack for many days in a row at altitude makes me want to be sure that I am ready. The following is the first of many entries that I will make leading up to June 8^th detailing what I am doing to train.

This week I had three days off, so I was able to get a day of skiing in on the first day. Skiing is definitely one of my favorite winter sports and I figure that a full day sliding around should be a good workout for the legs. My second day off I decided that I should load up the backpack with about 50 lbs and go for a hike. I wanted to get an idea for any issues I had with the pack, adjust the straps a bit, and of course begin training my hips for all the comforts of bearing more weight than usual. I only had a couple hours, so I went out to a nearby hill that has a nice trail. I went up and down a few times, trying to keep a relatively quick steady pace. Of course we will be moving more slowly in Alaska, but we will also have sleds. I didn’t think hauling a sled up a muddy trail would work out too well. This was helpful, and a couple days later…my hipbones don’t hurt anymore. On my third day off, I hit the gym. I warmed up on the elliptical for a bit. I then moved to some weight training (biceps, triceps, squats). I also spent a while on abs. A strong core always helps. I finished off the time at the gym with some pedaling on the bike. I also do yoga twice a week. I have noticed this to be extremely applicable to mountaineering as it pertains to focus on the breath, as well as ability to calm the mind in stressful situations. Of course, the strength and flexibility are advantageous as well. Doing yoga and having the ability to understand what is going on with your body helps with faster recovery…so stretch on! Anywho…more next week!

Jenny's Recap

2009-06-06T11:04:00.001-07:00

All the literature and websites in the world can't really prepare you for what it is really like up on the mountain and how well or not you will respond to it. Firstly, what a really really fabulous experience! The mountain is completely gorgeous, the views breathtaking and being immersed amongst it all fairly phenomenal. I was also blessed with really great weather which made it all the more magical. But lets be realistic about mountain climbing- it is not easy!!! Of the 14,400ft to the summit, my personal summit was 12,600ft - an elevation I was completely ecstatic to reach once I had the chance to really test my fitness and preparation against the mountain herself.

When you are told to be in the shape of your life you really do need to be, but it is hard to understand what that really means until you test it. On reflection, there was not much else I could have squeezed into my training program given my work schedule, but for next time (and there will be a next time!) I need to make sure I do more! For me, apart from swapping jobs to allow for more time, I think that would involve training as if for a marathon, or interval training, to really build up my cardiovascular fitness which I gather will also help with dealing with altitude. One of my team mates used a recommended Denali training program he found on the internet which worked well for him.

I had minimal problems with gear which was all loaned from RMI except for my harness which had to be swapped out for a more female friendly 'pee on the side of the mountain while roped to your team without taking it off' type, but which I found felt like it restricted my breathing. So perhaps I would purchase one and spend some time getting comfortable with it prior to the climb.

So for anyone who read this blog and are thinking of or working towards a Rainier climb, my big tip is whatever you are doing for preparation, definitely try to squeeze in MORE, you can never underestimate how helpful that will be. And whether you make it to the top or not, you will have a great time! A huge thanks to the wonderful guides and all the staff at RMI for a fantastic trip, I will see you all next time :)

Jenny is ready to climb

2009-05-28T14:45:00.000-07:00

Today I head to Ashford Washington so ths is the last entry prior to the climb. The last two weeks have seen an increase in the amount of leg strengthening and stair climbing in preparation for the climb. I began hiking to work with a laden backpack, as well as engaging in focused sessions in my apartment building- creeping up and down from the ground to 5th floor in reps of ten, trying not to wake my neighbours at 6am! Then toss in a couple of gym sessions and a surprisingly energetic hip hop dance class. I have full respect for how fit dancers are!

I just spent 4 days in beautiful San Francisco visiting family and taking advantage of the hills! Running up and down the 45 degree slopes was a brilliant reminder of what a difference real inclines make in your training. I managed to find a particularly steep section of taylor street just on the edge of downtown where they have had to put steps in the footpath to scale the 7 floors between cross roads which I ran up and down and up and down and up and down....you get the jist. I was actually quite surprised to find many others doing the same thing and taking advantage of the natural geography as an outdoor gym. There is also nothing quite like topping a hill and seeing the majestic view down to fishermans warf, the bay and the golden gate bridge. Breathtaking.

So that concludes the preparation. I can only hope it was enough to ensure I really enjoy it on the mountain. I am now looking forward to finally beginning the next phase of ths adventure, wish me luck!

Update from Jenny

2009-05-10T19:01:00.001-07:00

God bless the gym. If I hadn't joined, I think I would be in a lot of trouble regarding my fitness preparations for this trip given my workload. Added to this I just discovered the best class - kickboxing! Ignore that a lot of the moves are designed to take out an opponent in what is essentially a grotesquely violent manner - elbow to the head, side of foot to the knee cap etc- it is quite the well rounded workout that uses most of the muscles of the body, develops coordination, balance, and is very high in aerobic exercise at the same time. And bonus, there is a little self defense training in there as well! Being a passivist though (make love not war!), I try not to see the punching bag as anything other than a big black blob.

With only two and a half weeks to go, time seems to have crept up on me quite quickly. I recognize that however fit I am at sea level here in New York, adding altitude to the exercise will be establishing a whole new playing field for when up at the mountain. For the next two weeks, I will be looking to increase the resistance level on the gym equipment, and frequency of my workouts to really squeeze the most out of the time I have left. I finally got hold of a backpack from a friend (what, you say- an Australian who doesn't own a back back??? I know, crazy!) and will begin hiking to work. There are not a lot of (or any actually) hills in downtown Manhattan, but it will be good to get used to having the pack on my back. And there are enough really strange people in the city that I shouldn't really look that odd doing so.

I recently spent some time googling images of Mt Rainier, and I am keeping some shots taken of the spectacular view from the bare rim of the crater at the summit in front of me as my carrot to give it all I can. Lets hope I get to take my own similar shots in just a couple of weeks!

Cheers
Jenny

Ok, here is the next installment in the adventures of Jenny's training.....

2009-04-28T20:39:00.000-07:00

What an insane few weeks it has been since last I wrote! I have just come off the back of three 80 hour weeks and am pretty exhausted! Throw in there a bout of borderline flue and it has been quite the experience. So needless to say, I haven't had a huge amount of time to do much else but work and sleep. Thankfully I had joined the gym down the street from work so have been managing to squeeze a 1 hour trip to the gym every few days, typically at 9pm at night as I am now usually in a meeting over lunch, before then heading back to work for another hour or two to wrap up the day. Did I mention I am an architect? For anyone considering this profession, I encourage you to think long and hard about it first, it can be quite unrelenting!

I am sad to say that I never made it to the biathlon that I signed up for, mainly due to poor logistics on my behalf. When I signed up for it I didn't pay attention to exactly where and when it was and discovered I need to be on the subway heading to the outer limits of the Bronx at 5am on a Sunday morning. Not a very smart idea from a personal safety point of view so I chose instead to cruise around central park on what was the first truly hot weekend this year. Needless to say EVERYONE was out to enjoy the spectacular weather so central park turned into a bit of an obstacle course laden with cyclists, tourists, horses, children, dogs and rollerbladers everywhere. The Hudson River park - another good spot to stretch ones legs on the bike- was no better, but damn it was beautiful! Added to this, I have noticed an old tendonitis problem flaring up in my ankles so skipping out on the biathlon run was probably a good idea. No point in agitating it with a long run. While the nuisanse is ever so small, I have been to see a physical therapist to ensure it stays that way (or better, goes away), and swapped across from the treadmill to the elipse machine (that's what I think it is called) in the gym which is good for cardiovascular fitness while elimating the pressure on the ankle that is recieved from running.

Well, with only 3 1/2 weeks to go, I need to make sure these count!

Update from Jenny

2009-04-08T21:09:00.000-07:00

Whoever coined the term change is as good as a holiday was certainly onto something. My big recent change? Moving! Not a huge move geographically, I really just moved into the next suburb, but a wonderful psychological spring clean up to the 5th floor of a walk up in the East Village! The move has left me feeling re energized, and allowed for some changes to my daily routine, as well as a friendly wake up call regarding what I can realistically get done regarding training in the next 7 weeks, and what I need to be working a bit harder on.

This change has brought with it a few wonderful lifestyle in-builts – packing, moving place and then unpacking was great exercise, especially with all those stairs. And now, I get in-built daily stair training exercise. I am now also a little further from work which means 30 minute longer round trip walk everyday.

To my complete surprise, I actually joined the gym down the street from my office ....and I like the place! Who would have thought? Still chronically time poor, I have started going for a quick training session at lunch, namely a run on a treadmill, which is a damn site safer than navigating the crowds of NY streets at midday, followed by some strengthening exercises and stretching. It has started out as a quick 30 minute session; I slap out a couple of miles on the mill and am back at my desk for the afternoon round of meetings. It has been a long time since I used to run for exercise, possibly back in high school, so a 20 minute run without stopping has me pretty pleased at the moment. The plan though is that every time I go to the gym, I will add on an extra minute or two till hopefully, by the end of the month, I should be comfortably running for 45 minutes and still get back to my desk in a timely manner! As motivation to do this, and to provide a shorter term goal, I have signed up to participate in a biathlon on April 25, involving a 3 mile run, then 18 mile bike ride, then 3 mile run again.

So those were a couple of wins for the last fortnight. On reassessment of some of my earlier goals, I recognize that there are a few things that probably won’t happen before Ranier - actual hiking outdoors for instance. A bout of mild food poisoning last weekend meant I didn’t get to enjoy the sunshine on my bike, but some research for work will take me touring the Staten Island Bluebelt on two wheels this weekend so lets hope for some good weather!

Update from Jenny

2009-03-24T10:34:00.000-07:00

For this update on my training and preparations over the last two weeks there is both good news and bad news-

Good news- I had a couple of great sessions in the gym and a couple of lengthy bike rides around central park and prospect park. I can't keep up with the regular crowd zipping around in their multicolored sponsored gear representing italian dishwashing liquid and the like, but I am giving it a damn fine shot and riding hard and long enough to get a good workout!
Bad news- I was short of the quota of sessions I was aiming for. Amanda and other friends were also busy so I wasn't able arrange as many play dates as I hoped.
Good news- I put in an application on a new apartment. It happens to be on the 5th floor which means plenty of stairs everyday so fingers crossed I get accepted! Moving in should also be a good workout.
Bad news- next week looks like another busy one and with only two months left I really need to be picking up my game somewhat if I am going to maximize my enjoyment on Rainier.
Good news- there is a gym down the street from work. While I am generally allergic to public gyms, I think it may provide the structure and ease of access for exercise that I need given my generally hectic schedule. Added to that several people from work are members so I will have company, and there is a great introductory offer online at the moment.
And more good news, I have just discovered an outdoors hiking group with an upcoming open day so perhaps this is the opportunity to get out of the concrete jungle for a spell.
Until the next installment when hopefully it will be all good news.....

Cheers,
Jenny

2009-03-09T14:02:00.000-07:00

1. I’m committed to a climb that is six months from now. I’m beginning to train for this climb and I want to know what to eat. What foods, if any, should I start
cutting out of my daily diet and what foods can I eat that will help?

Mountain climbing is a serious undertaking. It requires you to be in peak physical condition on summit day. Six months beforehand is not too soon to get started! Well-prepared climbers share a strong nutritional foundation. The foods they eat supply enough nutrients and calories to meet their every-day nutritional needs and fuel daily workouts. In other words,successful climbers eat in a way that sets them for what is really needed--and that’s Vitamin T, as in Training.
Opt for a carbohydrate-rich diet built on nutritional powerhouses like whole grains (brown rice, oatmeal and whole wheat bread) and beans/lentils (chili, lentil soup, bean burritos) and low-fat milk and yogurt. Add quality protein like lean red meat, poultry (skip the skin), eggs and plenty of omega-3 rich fish (at least two servings a week). Load up on powerful antioxidants, which naturally promote good health and boost your immune system, by eating two cups of fruit and three cups of vegetables daily. Avoid or limit foods such as alcohol,soda, fatty meats and super-sized desserts that squeeze out the healthier foods your body needs to tolerate strenuous workouts, bolster your immune system and build lean muscle mass.
How you eat is just as important as what you eat. Plan ahead and be prepared. Choose to eat breakfast, make time for lunch and sit down for dinner—every day. Schedule a regular weekly trip to the grocery store and always keep healthful snacks on hand at your desk, in your gym bag and when you travel. The bottom line: when it comes to daily food choices, the greatest benefits come from eating in a way that leaves you physically ready and mentally
prepared to train.

2. I need to lose some weight before my climb. What is the best way to do this
and still have enough energy to train?

Don’t count calories, make your calories count. Active people often struggle to lose weight because they skip meals or diet during the day, only to backload the calories in at night. Concentrate on timing when you eat your meals and snacks with when you exercise. Plan to exercise one to three hours following a meal so you’re brain and muscles are properly fueled. Missed or sub-par workouts due to being too tired, rundown or unmotivated from poor eating habits won’t help you get or stay fit.
Following exercise, you’ll still want to speed your recovery by taking advantage of the “carbohydrate window.” Don’t rely on sports foods, like sports drinks and bars. Save those for when you really need them—during prolonged and intense exercise bouts. Instead, eat a healthy snack. Aim for real foods from two foods groups –like peanut butter on an apple or lowfat yogurt and whole grain cereal. Better still, sit down to your next planned meal.Remember, fitness leads to leanness. Losing weight does not automatically lead to improved fitness. To reach the leanest weight that’s healthy for your body, eat balanced meals and snacks and focus on training consistently. The following tips can help active people trim calories and keep training:
1. Limit or eliminate “liquid calories:” alcohol, soda, vitamin waters, flavored coffee drinks, energy drinks/shakes and super-sized fruit juices and smoothies.
2. Be smart with sports foods (energy bars, gels, Bloks and drinks): If you’re not training at a moderate intensity for at least 60 to 90 continuous minutes, you don’t need to supplement with sports foods before or during exercise. If you’re not working out that day, you don’t need them at all.
3. Cut the fat, not the fun: It’s tempting to try to avoid all sweets and other high-fat treats when weight loss is the goal. Get too hungry or feel deprived, however, and it doesn’t work. For the long haul, build in modest servings of your favorite “fun foods” at least three times a week. Enjoy at the end of a meal, not on an empty stomach.

Update from RMI Client Jenny

2009-03-08T16:56:00.000-07:00

* Note Jenny will be climbing Mt Rainier with RMI on May 27-May 31, she will be blogging once in awhile to update us on her progress*

Well, it’s been two weeks since my ‘call to self’ to begin a motivated training regime for the climb in May. For all the enthusiasm, it’s been, sorry to say, a bit of a slow start as it is has been hard to find the time for exercise. Ok, I can blame my 10-12 hour a day job, the fact that I am also in the middle of apt hunting for a new place to live as I near the end of my lease, desperately trying to maintain a social life and just general shear exhaustion from all of the above. Or, I can accept that they are all excuses to some degree. Real barriers, but still excuses.

So what did I manage to get done? I am stretching and doing core strength exercises everday- not a full 30 minutes as planned but still something everyday. I did manage one good session with my wonderful friend Amanda (who is in training for a half marathon) at the gym in her apartment building, and a whole lotta walking, what with looking at new places to live and the 1 hour round trip to work everyday. I seem to be looking at apts on upper floors in walk ups so indirectly have been getting a bit of a work out on stairs. Did I not mention previously that it works best if it is integrated into my daily activities? I also did some extra mental preparation and watched the Everest Imax film on Netflix and was blown away by the shear beauty of being on the mountain so I am still pretty excited about it all. Finally, for the first time ever, I have started taking note of how much fat and sugar is in my food and trying to limit this and eat as much fresh fruit and veg as someone who is lazy about eating can handle for the meantime. Small steps but all in the right direction I say!

My next tasks- Due to a cold snap and snowstorm this week, there wasn’t any outdoor running or cycling. Hopefully that is the last I see this winter of the ice, snow and consequential road salt which tends to wreak havoc on my bike, and so can begin to play outdoors again. However, over the next two week my core focus is going to be to incrementally squeeze in more work out sessions with Amanda who had about the same amount of success with her preparation. Hopefully we can motivate each other to up the ante and FIND the time we need each week to achieve the ultimate goals we have set!
Jenny

RMI Clients share their stories

2009-02-24T21:29:00.000-08:00

From time to time, we will have folks that are heading up Mt Rainier or other mountains blog about their experiences leading up to their climb, and hopefully a recap after.
If you are interested in sharing your story, drop us an email at jeremy@whittakermountaineering.com

Our first brave sole is Jenny. Thanks Jenny, we look forward to your blogs in the future.

Last year I would have considered myself reasonably fit. Then came winter in New York and since having grounded my bike I have been relegated to the indoors. My desk job and general aversion to the gym has, needless to say, set me quite the challenge for the May 27-31 Mt Rainier Summit climb. Good, I do like a challenge! And just as well as a recent jog around the block with the first sign of warmer weather definitely highlighted that I have my work cut out for me. Having initially read through the RMI website, several climbing blog sites and a few autobiographical accounts of world class mountaineers (from the comfort of my lounge chair of course) I am aiming to be as fit as possible so as to make the experience as enjoyable as possible.

I know myself well enough to recognize a few key things in my preparation. Firstly, I am pretty time poor so if I can’t slot training and preparation into my everyday lifestyle I won’t maintain consistency with it. Secondly, exercising with people is a lot more motivating and fun; and thirdly, I can get bored of repetitive routines so I need to chop and change my schedule enough to keep me interested.

My semi head start- I took the opportunity during the winter to get some successful physical therapy on a repetitive problem with my back – the result of a small sporting incident many years ago and sitting at a desk all day. This included some stretching and core and upper body strength training tailored into a short 45 minute program that I can keep up myself at home at least 3 days a week. Once the ice on the road is gone for good, I am going to try mix this in with some running and cycling, and try to actually get out of town into some real up and downhill outdoor hiking action.

Now, I have just returned from a short vacation to Puerto Rico where the sunshine, blue skies and Pina Coladas have awoken me from my winter slumber so it is time to put together a workable program, enlist my training buddies and get started …… let’s see how I go……..

cheers,
Jenny Dudgeon

Periodization Training: How Variety Pays of in Training and Nutrition

2009-01-18T12:32:00.000-08:00

Last night I began to read Chris Carmichael's Food for Fitness. He is an Olympic Cycling coach, as well as Lance Armstrong's trainer (he'll remind you plenty just in case you forget), and was a member of the first American Cycling team to participate in the Tour de France. I am always looking for new ways to improve my nutrition, and Carmichael's approach is really easy to understand and straightforward. Basically instead of eliminating whole food groups (no fat, no carb, etc.) Carmichael delves into how we need whole foods from all food groups, and when to eat them in relation to where you are at in your training. His concept stems from a way of organizing strength and cardiovascular training called Periodization.

Essentially Periodization is conciously creating a training program that cycles through varrying levels of intensity and duration, that culminate in a peak performace cycle to get you ready for a specific event--be it a 10K race or climbing a mountain. Triathletes, distance runners, and body builders all know the benefits of periodization. But it can be an excellent way to organize your training for climbing as well. By constantly varrying your workouts, you leave your body guessing, and it can never adapt to the exercise, meaning no more plateaus. Here is a great link to an article from the folks at Peak Performance that I think does a great job of explaining periodization in layman's terms, and will give you some food for thought when designing your own training regimine. It also touches on a lot of terms you see a lot in texts about training for mountaineering. So its a must-read for those wanting a quick crash course on the elements of training and all the lingo that goes with it.

Periodization Training Techniques from peakperformance.com

Periodization has also been shown in studies to be much more effective at increasing strength and power than traditional circut training. I found this highly referenced article that goes into the detail of the benifits of periodization over circut training. You can follow this link:

Circuit vs. Periodized Training

The periodiztion method seems especially relevant to climbing because of the importance of establishing mini-goals while on your way to a larger over-arcing goal of climbing a mountain. People ask me all the time how to tell if they are on track. Creating measurable goals that serve as benchmarks during your training is the only way to track progress. What's your mile time? Body measurements? Distance you are able to hike before stopping? Pack weight that feels good? All these are things that you can measure your progress against. Setting smaller goals also makes it easier to stick to a training plan. It's a lot easier to imagine three weeks from now, than three months, so focus on what you hope to accomplish in smaller chunks of time. It will help you stay motivated and hedge off any inclination you might have to procrastinate.

Even if you aren't interested in geeking out and creating a major periodization training schedule for yourself, always find ways to varry your workouts. By varrying either the intensity, duration, or frequency of your workouts you will see faster results than if simply sticking to a static routine.

Happy Training!

Send Us Your Questions!

2009-01-18T11:41:00.000-08:00

I've gotten a few great calls from folks gearing up for the 2009 climbing season with tons of great questions. In order to keep this blog fresh and full of pertinent information, we welcome your questions, and I will try and post answers to them here in the blog. Just e-mail liz@whittakermountaineering.com. Thanks for reading and happy training! ~Whittaker Mountaineering

Ho...oh...no. How to not blow your training during the holidays.

2008-11-26T15:21:00.000-08:00

If there was ever an excuse to take a break from a strict nutrition or training regimen, it is most certainly the five weeks that make up the holiday season. Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Years all crammed packed at the end of the year, each one offering up its own siren-like song of high calorie food, frantic schedules, and booze (yes I'm talking to you Seasonal Ales) that can lure even the most adherent athlete right off the tracks.

Right now there are about six months left for you to train before the climbing season begins. For all of you who are waiting to cash in on New Year's resolutions to begin training, the number of months is reduced to five. Factor in about a month of actually developing the habit of training and eating right, and you are down to four months of consistent training. So you can start to see the benefits of using the remaining weeks of this year to keep working toward your goals.

Here are some tips for integrating your training into the holiday season, so that come next summer you can't blame Aunt Edna and her killer pie for why you can't make it to Camp Muir.

Where Ever you Go...Bring Your Gear
After beginning my training last fall, I developed a habit that has stuck with me long after my climb. Included in my suitcase every time I travel are my running shoes and comfortable work out clothing. I enjoy getting out and running in new places. Often times gyms will allow you to get a "Free Trial" pass and use their facilities for a day, or pay a small day user fee. At the very least breaking out on your own for a run or a hike is a great way to kill holiday stress and avoid "quality family time" burn-out.

Hey--it all adds up.
Find yourself running up and down the basement stairs 800 times gathering holiday decorations? Strap on a pack and your boots and bust a sweat while getting tangled in tinsel. Believe it or not, a lot of the extra chores you will find yourself doing during the holidays burn a lot of calories. So step it up and offer to do as much as you can around the house (Think shoveling the walk, not mashed potatoes into your mouth). Who knows, maybe things will get done in time for you to take off on the trails for a few hours.

Drink, Drank, Flunk
Eggnog is not part of the program, I don't care what program you are on. Booze packs on a ton of calories, but more important for training, drinking alcohol in excess (as we tend to do during the holidays) will leave you feeling sluggish and dehydrated and not wanting to get out and run/hike/bike/ski or really anything that does not include trashy daytime tv and greasy breakfast items. Eliminate hangover days, and you will have that many more days to train. That being said, it is the holiday season--a time when old friends and family get together and reminisce, so to prepare yourself for what could be a few long nights with a few drinks, pick selected occasions where you will be drinking, and cut it out all together on the other days. Another angle is to simply imbibe with abandon and train anyway. This is great for those who want to know what climbing at altitude might feel like (yes, kind of like wanting to hurl), or how your body performs when exhausted ; ).

There is no way to undo months of training with a few days of excess. But particularly if you haven't begun to train, look at these next few weeks as the perfect start to your challenge. I mean if you can refuse a second piece of pie, then surely you have the willpower to get up Rainier.

Happy Holidays!

Nutrition for Mountaineers

2008-11-19T23:16:00.000-08:00

There are several schools of thought on the best nutrition plan for mountaineers. Serious mountain climbers need to focus on endurance while hobbyists have a bit more room to formulate their nutritional needs based on many factors. It is important that mountaineers plan their nutrition differently depending on whether they are about to start training, are currently training, climbing or recovering. The most important factors to consider are your energy needs and adequate hydration.

It is advised to start on your training diet a few days before actually starting to train. The reason is because carbohydrates are the best source of fuel for training and are stored as glycogen molecules in the muscles. A carbohydrate loaded meal the day of training will not provide the energy stores needed to reach peak performance. Therefore a carbohydrate-rich diet should be started at least a few days before beginning training.

Training nutrition should focus on muscle building. Many people think that protein is all that is needed to build muscles, but carbohydrates are the energy needed to make it happen. Therefore a combination protein and carbohydrate-rich diet is essential for training. Some healthy foods that can bulk up the daily carbohydrate content in your diet include: whole wheat pasta, whole wheat breads and fruits. Make sure to eat vegetables since they are needed for cell repair for a body under stress. Also, to get some extra protein, eat more meat, dairy and beans, if you are not a meat, dairy or bean enthusiast try a whey protein powder shake daily. For strength training you need about 0.7 to 0.9 grams of protein per pound of body weight. And don’t forget fats. Fat is a necessity since it can enhance your performance. Try mega doses of healthy fats like extra virgin olive oil on salads and use coconut oil for frying and sautéing.

Remember that the nutritional needs of athletes in training must be met daily and not just on actual training days in order to ensure sufficient energy storage. On training days some people like to use sugar to enhance endurance. Sugar just prior to training may provide some additional energy but this depends on the athlete. Each athlete would do well to experiment with this strategy to gauge their blood sugar reaction. Sugar can be a quick source of energy immediately before training, but for some people it can cause a real energy drain if it wears off in the middle of the training session.

For climbs, there are plenty of well-balanced pre-packed meals to ensure you get adequate nutrition. Protein is especially important for athletes to optimize the benefits of carbohydrate storage and to repair muscle tissue broken down during mountain climbing. Endurance athletes have a daily protein requirement of 0.6 to 0.7 grams of protein per pound of body weight. It is vital to athletic performance to remember the importance of quality protein. For example protein from fish, chicken, milk and peanut butter will serve you well. And of course for a climb, increase your carbohydrate intake to get adequate energy; try rice, pasta, bread and fruits. Staying well hydrated will provide a little extra energy, so keep drinking. A study shows that drinking tea will not dehydrate a climber but can improve their mood, so try taking some tea on your next climb.

Recovery nutrition is often the most overlooked aspect of mountaineering. When you finish climbing and no longer need the extra energy, it is still not time to let up on eating correctly. Immediately after the climb your body needs to replenish its energy stores and repair muscles. So go back to your pre-training diet for a few days after a climb. Since recovery nutrition keeps you prepared for the next climb, after those first few days keep on with your balanced nutrition plan and stay hydrated to maintain muscle strength.

The love of mountaineering can be enhanced when the body has all the necessary tools to thrive. Finding the right combination for your body may require a little experimentation to find just the right nutritional plan for you. Be sure to incorporate a balance of healthy carbohydrates, proteins and fats. Most of all, don’t forget to stay hydrated.

Relevant Studies:

Kerksick C, Harvey T, Stout J, Campbell B, Wilborn C, Kreider R, Kalman D, Ziegenfuss T, Lopez H, Landis J, Ivy JL, Antonio J. International Society of Sports Nutrition position stand: Nutrient Timing. 2008;5:17.

Major GC, Doucet E. Energy intake during a typical Himalayan trek. High Altitude Medicine & Biology. 2004;5(3):355-63.

Montain SJ, Shippee RL, Tharion WJ. Carbohydrate-electrolyte solution effects on physical performance of military tasks. Aviation Space and Environmental Medicine. 1997;68(5):384-91.

Westerterp KR. Limits to sustainable human metabolic rate. Journal of Experimental Biology. 2001;204(Pt 18):3183-7.

Zamboni M, Armellini F, Turcato E, Robbi R, Micciolo R, Todesco T, Mandragona R, Angelini G, Bosello O. Effect of altitude on body composition during mountaineering expeditions: interrelationships with changes in dietary habits. Annals of Nutrition and Metabolism. 1996;40(6):315-24.

Training Programs

2008-11-18T11:57:00.001-08:00

Personalized Coaching from Body Results
Special Offer for Whittaker Mountaineering Clients
Whittaker Mountaineering is proud to partner with the mountaineering trainers of BodyResults.com, Courtenay and Doug Schurman. The Schurmans have been helping people train for mountaineering and other wilderness adventures for over a decade. They are also the creators of the DVD, Train to Climb Mt Rainier, that Whittaker Mountaineering recommends and sells. They work with clients in their training center in Seattle and they offer an online training service for their clients from around the US and internationally to guide them through customized monthly training plans to be physically prepared for mountaineering adventures around the world.
Whether you've never climbed more than a flight of stairs or you're working on the 8,000 meter peaks, the Schurmans can work with you to create a customized training plan and coach you along to reach your conditioning goal. To learn more and take advantage of a special offer for Whittaker Mountaineering clients, click here.

The Importance of Training with a Pack

2008-11-17T12:56:00.000-08:00

Log as many miles running or biking as you want, but skip training with a pack and you will risk being unprepared for your climb. People might want to forgo this type of training for a number of reasons. Sometimes you may not have access to a pack, especially if you plan on renting one. Also, people can get embarrassed at the thought of hiking around town with a weighted pack, or feel even sillier strapping on the pack to spend time on the elliptical at the gym.

It's very simple though. No other exercise or training will prepare you quite like hiking up some hills with a loaded pack. You will become comfortable with the level of exertion that hiking up steep terrain with a pack requires, as well as developing the same muscles that you will use extensively on your climb.

The key to training with a pack is to start with light to moderate weight and gradually increase as your training regime progresses. Gradually working up to what your pack will weight during your expedition will insure that you avoid injury. A favorite tip about training with a pack, is to use water bottles to create a lot of the weight of your pack. That way, if it gets a little heavy, or you want to reduce the weight on the descent, its as simple as pouring out some water on the trail.

Training with a pack also lets you assess your pack's fit and performance. Is it the right size? Are there any problems adjusting it? Does it fit all of my equipment inside? Are all questions that can be answered during a training hike. If you are planning to rent your pack, I highly suggest borrowing a pack from a friend to train, or at the very least, loading up the biggest backpack you have to attain some of the advantages of training with a loaded pack.

Short on hilly trails in your area? There are other ways you can train with a pack that don't require a hill. Climbing stairs with a pack will offer some of the same benefits of strengthening quads and calves. I would recommend reducing weight climbing down stairs, as going down stairs is more jarring on the knees than walking down hill. Leg presses and squats are also good to do with your pack. For leg presses, find a tall stair or two or a low bench. Press up to stand on the bench with one leg, then bring the other leg up to meet it. Step down and repeat on the other side. Keep increasing weight and repetitions as you progress through your training.

Overall, if you can aim for at least one long training hike per week with a loaded pack (even better if you can find some place with a little elevation gain) you will be working the muscles you need to help get you to the top.

Let it snow! Incorporating Winter Activities Into Your Training.

2008-11-09T12:00:00.000-08:00

Nothing is more discouraging than having an established training routine only to have it disrupted by Mother Nature. It's so easy to hit the snooze button instead of waking up for that morning run when it's darker, colder, and perhaps snowier than when you began your regimen. What the winter can do however, is force us out of our comfort zones and try new activities. This will benefit your training program by reducing boredom, and training new muscle groups.

For those that live in regions where snow is prevalent, the possibilities are endless. This will be my first winter living where there is ample white stuff to play around in. Being a southern girl I did not grow up doing the family ski trip or participating in any winter sports. This year I am so excited to try all of these new activities.

Cross-Country Skiing

Remember Nordic Track? That cumbersome exercise machine from the 80's that seemed to be in every fitness enthusiasts spare bedroom? The idea behind it was to capitalize on the vast benefits of cross-country skiing all without having to go outside in the cold. XC Skiing is one of the most difficult endurance sports, utilizing every one of the major muscle groups. It also (along with running, swimming, and rowing) burns the most calories per hour of any sport--making it the perfect way to train for mountaineering. While many areas have hut systems with groomed trails, I've even seen people XC skiing on snowy running trails in cities like Boston and Milwaukee, making it a feasible undertaking anywhere there is a little white on the ground. Many shops (like ours...wink, wink) rent XC Ski packages to allow infrequent users or beginners to experience the sport using quality equipment without making a huge investment.

Be prepared to go only a short distance your first time out. The first time can mean a few falls while you are getting your "ski legs". But the benefits of this sport are so vast, that gliding along a snowy path while enjoying the quiet of the winter woods might just be a new way you decide to wait out the winter.

Snowshoeing

Snowshoeing is another great way to engage the whole body in a workout and continue a running or hiking routine when the trails become snow covered. Snowshoes help increase flotation across soft snow. Snowshoes are also widely used in the mountaineering world, so learning how to snowshoe or investing a pair of your own might be a great way to prepare for your climb. For tips on purchasing your first pair, or help learning about the different products available, call us at the shop.

If you can walk, you can snowshoe. Refining your snowshoeing technique to avoid exhausting yourself will be necessary, but in general snowshoes are very easy to use. Use snowshoes to hike your normal trails that have become buried in powder, or use them to access the backcountry to explore new terrain on your skis or snowboard.

One of the coolest things I have come across are new snowshoes designed specifically for running. Combined with a pair of Gore-Tex trail runners, racing snowshoes allow you to run safely across snowy trails with ease. There are also quite a few races out there for those who want to stay competitive while waiting for the spring race season to start up.

The training benefits of snowshoeing are the same as running or hiking. Snowshoeing provides excellent aerobic conditioning. Add a pack with some weight in it, and you can keep up your weekly mileage no matter what the weather brings.

Downhill Skiing and Snowboarding

Aside from being totally fun, downhill skiing and snowboarding are great for strength training. Up the ante by skinning or snowshoeing up to your destination, but even if you take the lift, the ability to maneuver on skis or a snowboard requires tons of balance, core and leg strength and coordination. It will also help improve your anaerobic threshold, often requiring you to emit short bursts of energy while heading downhill.

Ice Skating

Most larger metropolitan areas have an indoor or outdoor rink to lace up some skates, and tap into our inner child. Ice skating, like running, is a great lower body workout. Make a few laps around the rink at a decent pace, and you will start to feel that heart rate rise. Ice skating is also low impact, so it gives your knees a break from running.

Tips for Success

Dressing appropriately for a winter activity is key for enjoyment. We here at Whittaker Mountaineering have a lot of experience dressing for all types of conditions. Feel free to give us a call and we can help you select not only the clothing for your upcoming climb, but clothing that will make your training more comfortable and enjoyable. There have been tons of advances in fabrics that allow us to play outside for long periods.

Softshell fabrics are great for winter aerobic activities because they breathe much better than waterproof fabrics, but are still highly water resistant--making them a great choice for the snow. Softshell is also stretchier than waterproof fabrics, and move with you making them more comfortable. They also come in a wide variety of weights. I prefer lighte rweight softshells for high aerobic activities like XC skiing, The Mountain Hardwear Tanglewood Jacket or the Mammut Ultimate Hoody are both light weight, extremely breathable, and water resistant.

Also, its very important in colder temps to eat and drink frequently. This will fuel your body to help keep you warm when the mercury drops, in addition to fueling your performance. Pack lots of high calorie snacks and water when venturing out in the snow.

Remember, while mountaineering is our specialty, we have the clothing and equipment to help you get through the training portion of your exciting adventure to climb Mt. Rainier. We are always happy to help you with your questions throughout the whole process. So don't hesitate to call. So bundle up, and get outside. You may just find a new sport that will carry you through a lifetime of fitness.

Building up Cardio

2008-11-02T12:52:00.000-08:00

Having a high level of cardiovascular fitness is essential to mountaineering. Basically, cardiovascular fitness can be defined as how efficient your body's organs are at consuming, transporting, and utilizing oxygen. The maximum volume of oxygen your body can consume and use is your VO2 Max. Everyone's VO2 max is from the outset determined by genetics. But VO2 max can be increased through training. Interestingly, altitude lowers a person's VO2 max due to a reduction in available oxygen in the atmosphere, making it even more important for those interested in climbing high altitude peaks to train to increase their VO2 max threshold. The only way to do this is by incorporating "cardio" into your training routine.

Ultimately in order to climb efficiently, you should be able to sustain a moderate level of intensity for at least an hour. If you already run, bike, or XC Ski and can sustain an hour or more of activity, then congratulations! Your goals should be to increase speed and strength in preparation for your climb.

But if you're like most, and hour of aerobic activity can seem like an eternity. Below are some tips for building up cardio as you go along. The important thing to remember is that committing to a routine will put you in the best position to reach your fitness goals.

When I began training for Mt. Rainier last December I decided on running. Running is inexpensive, and can happen anywhere. Some tips for running include investing in some great shoes (a specialty running store like Fleet Feet will be able to assess your needs and get you in a great shoe), and run on soft surfaces i.e. asphalt as opposed to concrete, or trails or dirt roads to minimize injury from impact.

Begin with 10-15 minutes of warm up. I start out walking at a brisk pace or jogging very slowly. Once you feel that the blood is pumping and the muscles are warm get into a stride that has you increasing speed, but at a pace where you can still carry on a conversation. Intersperse your running with walking in order to keep exercising for a full 30 minutes (not including a warmup). Depending on your fitness this may mean 30 sec. of running and a full minute of walking. The important thing in the beginning of building up your cardio is not speed or distance but endurance. The longer you can keep training the better, even if you are walking more than half the time. As weeks progress, you can begin to lengthen your running intervals and workout sessions. For me it takes about three weeks of a consecutive running program before I feel I can start to feel it getting a little easier. So hang in there...but this can be different for everyone. Before you know it, running for thirty minutes without stopping will be a breeze.

To make the leap from thirty minutes to an hour, follow the same steps as before, setting small goals and increasing the duration of your intervals and workouts as the weeks tick by. Once your aerobic capacity has increased, then you can begin work on your anaerobic threshold. Anaerobic simply means without oxygen. Anaerobic training means incorporating short bursts in your workout that exhaust your threshold to intake and use oxygen. Incorporating sprints, sudden steep inclines, or exertion during your workout will allow you to train anaerobically. Over time this type of training will help build your overall aerobic threshold, allowing you to work harder for longer.

To add variety to your workout, you can include other types of aerobic activities that help increase your cardiovascular fitness like biking, xc skiing, swimming, or a class at a gym. Cross training will reduce boredom with a routine and make sure you constantly are improving. And know that every time you feel a little out of breath and are busting a sweat, you are getting yourself that much closer to being in prime condition to climb that peak.

Resources:
Neat Article on High Altitude Training
About.com intro to Cardio Training

Developing A Training Regimen

2008-10-25T14:20:00.000-07:00

Mountaineering requires a level of fitness most of us don't have right off the couch. If you've made the commitment and investment to sign up for a mountaineering expedition, you owe it to yourself, your guides, and the others on your climb to be in peak physical condition so that the climb can be more successful, safe, and enjoyable.

Right now we are about 7 months out from when the main climbing season begins on Denali and Rainier...which luckily is about the amount of time most fitness experts recommend training before attempting a new activity like mountaineering. Now that time is on your side, coming up with a training regimen that is viable, effective, and fun will give you the structure you need to achieve your fitness goals.

Climbing a mountain is serious business, and your training schedule should reflect that. One of the places that I falter, and see others do the same, is when we let everything else in our lives take priority over training. This is easy to do when you might be the only one in your family or circle of friends attempting a feat like climbing a mountain. But getting into a habit of exercise and following a routine will be your best defense against letting all things trump your training. That being said, having a routine that allows for some flexibility will keep you from feeling resentful about your time spent training, and will help you stay motivated.

When at all possible, a training regimen should have you participating in the activity you are training for. Marathon runners train by running, cyclists train by cycling. Climbers should train by climbing. This means that the more you can find yourself in steep terrain (i.e. hills, stairs) wearing a pack, the more you will be training the muscle groups you will be recruiting from for your climb. The luxury of starting to train early though, means that you can ease into the steep hikes with a full pack.

Conditioning Needs for Mountaineering

Every sport has its own needs as far as training. Some sports require that you acquire more flexibility than speed, or more stamina than strength. Determining what the needs are of your sport first will make sure that your training regimen is focused and successful. The following diagram points out the conditioning needs of mountaineering.

Aim for activities that emphasize cardiovascular fitness and strength endurance. A great example of this is climbing steep terrain with a pack (see, its not a ploy). Really any activity that can get you "huffing and puffing" and "feeling the burn" will do. In the beginning this may look differently than you imagine. In the beginning "huffing and puffing" and "feeling the burn" may be achieved with a jog around the block or a short hike with no pack. The important thing is to start slow and stick to a routine. Build each week by lengthening hikes or runs, and eventually adding a pack with some weight.

Another great way to increase stamina is to incorporate intervals into your training. These help max out your anaerobic threshold allowing your body to learn how to do more with less. Break up a long run by adding some sprints. Or while you are on that long hike, find something in the distance and increase your pace until you reach that object.

Strength training for mountaineering can be a time to step out of the box, and get out of the gym. Weight machines tend to not be as effective as building the smaller muscle groups that are important to providing stability when descending a big mountain. We recommend incorporating different types of isometrics like lunges and squats to tone the muscle groups you will need for climbing when strength training.

So where is the training schedule? I have purposefully left that up to you. Creating a personalized schedule is part of the fun of training, and will give you an ownership of your training that I think helps with commitment and increasing will power. I could tell you to strength train on Tuesdays, hike on Saturdays, and rest on Sundays...but what if that doesn't work for you? The most important part of any training schedule is how easy it is to stick to, so get out the calendar and start planning! You have 7 months to get in the best shape of your life, while achieving one of the most rewarding, awesome goals--climbing a mountain.

Here are some resources to help you along the way:

RMI's Letter on Training
Article on Training by Kathy Colsey-Mountain Guide

Body Results DVD

Climbing: Training for Peak Performance

Conditioning for Outdoor Fitness

Training While Sick. Good idea?

2008-08-13T11:51:00.000-07:00

Remember sick days as a child? Mom would call into the school secretary and you would spend the day holed up on the couch watching movies and eating soup. Funny how now as adults we don't take the same cues from our body and allow ourselves a day of rest. Most of our jobs or daily routines don't allow for it even.

But what about your training routine? What modifications (if any) should you make when plagued with illness. As I write this I am currently on day 6 of one of the nastiest colds I have been dealt in a long time. The fever has subsided only to be replaced by conjunctivitis in both eyes (pleasant I know). I am a member of the walking dead, drinking my weight in tea, and dosing on cold meds to stay afloat. Not exactly the shape I hoped to be in just a few short weeks away from a scheduled summit climb. It has been over a week since my feet hit the trail. My only exercise has been walking around Salt Lake City at a trade show over the weekend to keep up with coworkers as we made the trek from the hotel to the convention center. It hurts to read, talk, or generally stand for long periods of time. So what now?

A little internet scouring led me to discover a lot of different types of athletes saying pretty much the same thing. Whether you are a tri-athlete, a marathon runner, or bodybuilder, the general rule seems to be REST. Letting your body's immune system do its thing is the best thing you can do for your body and training. One quote from Dr. Stephen Cheung on the Pez Cycling site really sums it up: "it’s always better to be under-trained and healthy than over-trained but sick!"

Another general guideline that came up was to follow the "neck rule." If the symptoms are primarily above the neck, i.e. nasal congestion then it's okay to train. If symptoms reside below the neck such as fever, body aches, chest congestion, or stomach problems, it's best to take time off to recover.

The main thing is to not let some time off for illness discourage you from reaching your goals. Trust the base you have built with your pre-illness training, and use this time to do other things to prepare for your climb. Scour a climbing guide for info on the route, read trip reports online, or shop for the latest gear!

How to Train Mentally

2008-08-01T14:46:00.000-07:00

I recently made my first summit of Mt. Rainier. It was really gratifying to see how all of my training paid off. At high break I remember being surprised at how comfortable and energized I felt. On the hike down I got into an interesting conversation with one of my fellow climbers and another guide. We were discussing common reasons people choose to end their summit bid and descend. We all agreed that while there are many reasons someone might reach their limit, many of them could be alleviated with a little mental training. A lot goes on while on the mountain. Your body is fighting the altitude, the exertion, and most importantly the stress of doing something new which can be scary at times. It was this last part of the climb where I knew I had a distinct advantage. Living in Ashford, and working closely with RMI, the Mountain is always the main topic of conversation. People are always discussing route condition, current hazards, and weather patterns. Over the past few months, I have become acutely aware of what goes on up there, before I had ever set foot above 10,000 feet.

Physical training is an important part of preparing for your climb. Building endurance and muscle tone are key to insuring your body can withstand the stress of mountain climbing. But it was the mental preparedness that I felt gave me the ability to withstand some of the moments that were "less than comfortable." Knowing what to expect allowed me to focus less on the big task of climbing the mountain (or the crevasses!), and spend my energy insuring I was using proper crampon technique and breathing correctly.

Reading climbing guides and trip reports will help you understand the route and have an idea of what to expect. Scheduling some time to speak with someone at your guide service to answer any questions will also prove helpful. Becoming more knowledgeable about the sport of mountaineering can make all of the finer points of rope travel and self arrest make more sense. The idea of mental training is to eliminate as much of the unknown as possible so that your mind can be more at ease with this new challenge you are undertaking.

Here are some suggestions of resources I used to prepare me for my climb.

Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills

Mount Rainier: A Climbing Guide by Mike Gauthier

Alpine Mountaineering DVD

Motivation

2008-07-20T18:36:00.000-07:00

Sticking to a training plan is a challenge that everyone must conquer in order to achieve their fitness goals. But figuring out how to stay motivated can at times prove to be more challenging than the climb itself.

After years of stop and start exercise plans, when I found out I was going to climb Mt. Rainier, I knew I had to make a mental shift in order to see bigger and better results than I had in the past. There are ton of articles out there that speak to this topic, but sometimes the suggestions seem to add more work to an already full training plan. Here are some things that have really helped me stay motivated while I have been training.

At first it was easy to hit the gym or the trails. The excitement surrounding my decision to climb (which was coupled with the excitement of accepting my current position with Whittaker Mountaineering) made my workouts fun and exciting. Hopefully this excitement stays with you right up until your climb, but if it doesn't try these tricks to stay on the ball.

1. Have someone to hold you accountable. You can do this a couple of ways. Have a workout partner that you meet a few times a week. Or have someone that you report your progress to. I have a few friends that are serious runners, so when I started to get serious about the sport they loved hearing about my progress, and they had great advice when I would hit a wall. I also advertise pretty heavily when I am trying to develop good habits, because then it becomes one of the first things coworkers, friends, family ask you about. And when you are getting asked "How's your training going?" a few times a day, you want to have something good to report.

2. Get Creative with your Workout. Run the same route for four months and you will surely burn out. I try to run something different each time I go out. Here in Ashford, I am fortunate to have miles of trails right out of my door step. But for a change of pace, I ran on the road today. I also find ways to keep me upbeat when the going gets tough. On a recent hill workout I played cheesy pop music to help me sprint the switchbacks. On my long training hikes I listen to audiobooks.

3. Compete. Maybe its running you regular 5 mile loop five minutes faster. Or entering a local race. I like to find someone who runs faster than me, and push myself to keep up. Setting mini-goals will allow you to feel successful while on your path to the top. There is no rule that says you have to wait until you climb in order to reap the benefits of your training.

4. Take a week off. Counter intuitive? Sure. But it really works. I spent a whole week feeling pretty sluggish on my runs. I had no interest in strength training. Forget push ups. I was burnt out. So I took a whole week and didn't train at all. Sure I got outside, that's just my nature. But I didn't run once. And by the end of the week I was itching to get back out on the trails, and sure enough I had one of my best runs ever. Ear to ear grin the whole time and I ran harder than before the break.

5. Visualize the Mountain. One of the things that helps me on long runs or hike is to think about the mountain. I visualize myself succeeding because of the hard work I am putting into it now. I'm lucky that I get to see my peak pretty often living in Ashford. But if I didn't, I would put a picture of the mountain on my bathroom mirror or the fridge. Somewhere where I can see it everyday, and daydream about what the views will be like standing on top.

Liz is the Retail Manager for Whittaker Mountaineering, and will make her first attempt for the summit of Mt. Rainier this week.

Do you Sweat a lot.

2008-03-30T13:46:00.000-07:00

This information is from our friends at bodyresults.com. Thanks.

Sweating a ton!
Q.I always seem to sweat a ton whenever I exercise, whether it’s hot or cold, regardless of whether it’s a cardiovascular workout or strength training. Is it normal, or something I should be worried about?
A. Sweating is a very natural way for your body to cool itself down. If your body did not sweat effectively it would be far more worrisome.
The main things to be concerned about with copious sweating are the following:
Replenish the fluids lost during hard exercise. One way to be sure you are doing this adequately is to weigh yourself before a long endurance workout and then be sure you drink enough during and after to return you to your starting point. Be sure you drink before you get thirsty or you may end up dehydrated.
Consume enough electrolytes (potassium and sodium) in addition to water to prevent bouts of hyponatremia, which typically only occurs in more extreme cases of heat and endurance activities (see www.bodyresults.com/E2hyponatremia.asp for more information.)
Change clothing layers as soon as you stop moving, especially if you get really wet with sweat. This applies on warm as well as cooler, overcast days.
Make layering your buddy! Remove a layer just before you start to exercise so that you start out a little on the chilly side; this will help prevent you from overheating in the first few minutes of your workout.
Since a large amount of heat can be lost through your head, wear a very light knit hat or at least a bandana in very cold weather to help prevent too much heat loss.
As a courtesy to other exercisers, keep a towel handy if you are training indoors so you can dry off the machines and equipment after you are finished so the next person has clean gear to work with.
If you are one of nearly 8 million Americans who suffers from more extreme cases of perspiration from hands, feet, armpits or elsewhere, you may actually have a condition known as hyperhidrosis. Doctor-prescribed antiperspirants containing higher than normal levels of aluminum compounds can help plug up excessively active sweat glands.

www.whittakermountaineering.com

Benefits of Massage

2008-03-15T12:11:00.001-07:00

Ask someone their reason for getting a massage and you're likely to hear "because it feels good". We all know that a massage can relieve stress, help to make sore muscles feel better and even reduce anxiety, but can it help us achieve our fitness goals? Research shows that the massage you get to relieve stress can also have a positive effect on your muscle-building capabilities and fitness level.Massage improves circulation and general nutrition of muscles. This appears to be the most valuable fitness-related benefit. Massage is accompanied or followed by an increase interchange of substances between the blood the tissue cells, which increases tissue metabolism. After a muscle is exercised, vital nutrients must be supplied in order for it to increase in size. Massage maximizes the supply of nutrients and oxygen though increased blood flow, which helps the body rebuild itself. Massage improves the range of motion and muscle flexibility. This results in increased power and performance, which helps you work efficiently and with proper intensity to facilitate the body's muscle-building response. Massage helps to shorten recovery time between workouts. Waste products such as lactic and carbonic acid build up in muscles after exercise. Increased circulation to these muscles help to eliminate toxic debris and shorten recovery time. Massage can help prevent over-training. Massage has a relaxing effect on the muscles, as well as a sedative effect on the nervous system. This can prevent over-training syndrome which has limiting effect on muscle building. Massage may aid in fat loss. According to some research, massage may burst the fat capsule in subcutaneous tissue so that the fat exudes and becomes absorbed. In this way, combined with proper nutrition, massage may help in weight loss. Massage helps prevent and even heal injuries. By stretching connective tissue, massage improves circulation to help prevent or break down adhesions. Massage also influences the excretion of certain fluids (nitrogen, phosphorous, sulfur) necessary for tissue repair. While a massage won't build muscle directly, it helps to facilitate the body's rebuilding phase following a workout and influences muscular growth. Getting a massage is just as important as regular workouts and supportive nutrition for a comprehensive fitness program. Great news for those of us who thought building a great body was all hard work!Before making an appointment with the first massage therapist you encounter, however, be sure they are a qualified bodywork practitioner. Ask for referrals, professional training information, and certification credentials from a reputable agency, such as the National Certification Board for Therapeutic Massage and Bodywork (NCBTMB).ABOUT THE AUTHORJon Gestl, CSCS, is a Chicago personal trainer and fitness instructor who specializes in helping people get in shape in the privacy and convenience of their home or office. He is a United States National Aerobic Champion silver and bronze medalist and world-ranked sportaerobic competitor and editor of the fitness ezine "Inspired Informed and Inshape." He can be contacted through his website at http://www.jongestl.com.

PHYSICAL FITNESS & CONDITIONING for Mountaineering

2008-03-15T12:09:00.000-07:00

PHYSICAL FITNESS & CONDITIONING for Mountaineering
The purpose of this information is to help you set and reach fitness goals. Our training goal is to help you get physically and mentally prepared to fully engage in the sport of mountaineering. Your climbing goal will be to perform strong and steady throughout your adventure.
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) offers numerous adventures on Mount Rainier and Mount McKinley, and worldwide from nearby Mexico to far-away Everest. While different objectives require varying levels of commitment, sound fitness gained through a well-guided program is the single best way you can ensure a safe and successful adventure regardless of the destination you have chosen.
Start on a good foot and seek your physician’s approval and the advice of a physical trainer/fitness expert before taking on a serious training program. A sound fitness program addresses cardiovascular fitness (fitness of the heart) and motor fitness (particularly strength, endurance and balance).
Cardiovascular fitness is measured through your aerobic capacity, your body’s ability to take in and use oxygen. At sea level, the restrictive factor in delivering oxygen to the muscles is the heart’s ability to pump blood, not the capability of the lungs to take in oxygen. It is at altitude, where oxygen is effectively less available, that lung capabilities come into question. Aerobics should be directed at conditioning your heart muscle even though it can also improve somatic muscle fitness.
Motor fitness is needed to complement cardiovascular fitness. Motor fitness refers to strength (the ability to exert force), power (the ability to exert force rapidly), endurance (the ability to withstand exertion), balance (the ability to maintain stability), agility (the ability to perform actions quickly and smoothly), and flexibility (the ability to bend without breaking).
Fitness and Acclimatization: The fitter you are, the more effectively you can acclimate (i.e., adjust) to altitude. That is simply because fit climbers expend less energy for a certain task (i.e., a day of hard climbing), leaving their bodies ready for the task of acclimatization.
It is important to understand what your goals are so that you may maximize your training. This is especially important given the time constraints placed on a mountaineer by weather, route conditions, objective hazards, and the effects of altitude. Proper physical conditioning will allow you to perform better by climbing longer, stronger and faster, be more comfortable on steeper and awkward terrain, carry heavier loads, recover quicker at rest, and enjoy the entire adventure more completely. Training goals will vary from mountain to mountain. Here are two examples:
Mount McKinley 22-day Expedition:
Be able to carry a 60-pound pack for five to eight hours a day for several successive days.
Be able to recover from a difficult day of climbing within an eight- to twelve-hour period.
Be able to perform as an asset on a summit day of fourteen hours (on slopes up to 40 degrees).
It is wise to take a look at your current fitness level before getting started on a new fitness program. A comprehensive assessment (done under advice of a trainer at your local gym) can certainly be an important tool toward your fitness goals.
The Fitness Program
Start your entire fitness training program well in advance of your climb, and increase the intensity and duration of your exercising as you gain fitness. Very generally, a six-month minimum is needed to implement an effective program. Your first weeks in this new fitness program will most likely be focused on getting into a routine. Discipline yourself to begin both the cardiovascular and motor fitness training from the outset, but start carefully to avoid overuse or over-enthusiasm injuries. Use a variety of exercises, activities, locations, etc. to keep physically challenged and mentally engaged. Be cautious of month-by-month formulaic programs which tend to over-simplify expectations and promises. You should have a plan that is both regimented specifically for you and be flexible enough to meet your personal needs.
The more your training can simulate real climbing, the more you will benefit. The following exercises can be used in your fitness program.
Use aerobic exercises to develop cardiovascular fitness.
There are a variety of aerobic exercises which are fantastic for training. They include: climbing and descending hills, stairs or stadium bleachers, any kind of skiing, snowboarding, running and cycling.
Other excellent aerobic activities which can benefit you but tend to be less focused for our needs include: aerobics classes, stationary cycling, circuit weight training, boxing and martial arts. Swimming can also be valuable. For the purposes of this expedition it would serve you better to use aerobic activities more suited to our goal of maximizing cardiovascular fitness and maximizing the strength and endurance needed for climbing.
In addition to the benefit of cardiovascular fitness, there needs to be concentrated effort on developing your aerobic ability for the descent from the summit. We should prepare for the event of a big storm moving in at the end of the day and thus train so we have the ability to get down quickly. A good strengthening program for the legs, especially quadriceps and knees, can really pay off on the mountain. When training with a pack, use a bathroom scale to hold it accountable.
Some training recommendations for aerobic exercising include:
(1) Keep your training range at 65 to 85% of your maximum heart rate. There is a well known formula for ascertaining your maximum heart rate that is based on your age, which you subtract from the number 220 (beats per minute). Arbitrary at best. We suggest that you begin with that formula, and then be aware of how you feel. Your perceived exertion can actually be a better indicator of how you ought to be performing on a given day. Individually, we differ enough, and certainly we have good days and bad days, such that “how we feel” should come into play. For example, a 39 year old has a maximum heart rate of 181; i.e., 220 - 39 = 181 beats per minute. The training range, then, is between 118 and 154 beats per minute.
(2) We recommend that the time you spend working aerobically should be a solid 30 minutes a day, and shouldn’t exceed 60 minutes. In order to train for the lengthy days in the mountains, you’ve got to get out and do lengthy training climbs; nothing else will prepare you as adequately.
(3) The frequency of your aerobic workout can be rather unlimited. You can train every day if you like. Be careful that you don’t overdo it and set yourself up with injuries. You should include some rest time each week.
Use interval training to advance your cardiovascular fitness.
The technique of interval training calls for including surges in the activity while maintaining an elevated heart rate. Here are some examples:
(1) If you are a runner, begin by running at a moderate intensity for twenty minutes. Every ten minutes thereafter, increase your pace for three to eight minutes, then return to the moderately intense level.
(2) If you are at the track, run around the track once at a moderate pace. Sprint 220 yards, then run one lap again. Repeat.
(3) If you are using a step mill, step moderately (at the high end of your aerobic training range) for ten minutes. Every five minutes thereafter, increase your pace for 1 to 1½ minutes, then return to moderate intensity.
Remembering that the heart’s ability to pump blood to the body is a major limiting factor in our athletic performance, then here is a training technique which can help us overcome that limitation. What we are doing here is going beyond standard cardiovascular fitness. Interval training, when used over a longer period of time, can aid in increasing the heart’s capacity for pumping blood through the body.
This is a very strenuous manner of training, and it shouldn’t be initiated at the last minute. We have had success with interval training when we have a minimum of three months of training time.
Use weights, calisthenics and stretching to develop motor fitness.
We suggest that when you work with weights, limit it to 2 sets of 20 repetitions with lighter weights (lighter than the heavy weights customarily used to intensify muscle growth). Your first 15 reps ought to go easy; your last five with each set should be tough. Rest for 30 to 60 seconds between sets.
Below are sample workouts which we have found successful. This program develops both cardiovascular and motor fitness. We have intentionally omitted describing the specific mechanics of the workouts as there exists a huge arsenal of exercises and machines to match an individual’s personal situation (personal history and present fitness level).
It is important that in addition to a sound lower body, you develop a sound upper body as well. A sound torso (both back and stomach) is especially important for mountaineering where heavy pack weights add a new dimension to our physical activities. These training principles are essentially the same for our upper and lower bodies. Use a physical trainer to help you build a program specific to your lifestyle and needs.
Stretching, balance, aerobic and abdominal exercises can be done every day. You should work with lower body and upper body weights at least twice a week (once every 3 days). Don’t fail to include a good warm up and warm down in your workout.
Warming up and warming down
Include 10 to 15 minute aerobic warm up and a 5 to 10 minute warm down in your program. This is an important component of any program. Keep your heart rate in an aerobic range; don’t get anaerobic.
Examples include walking, jogging in place, step mills, treadmills, cycling, and jumping rope.
Stretching
Include 15 minutes of quality stretching into your program.
Focus on slow, static stretching. Avoid bouncing, ballistic stretching.
With static stretching, hold the stretch for 30 to 60 seconds, breathing through the stretch. Hold it only to the point of tension, not to the point of pain.
Don’t stretch through pain; you are stretching and tearing muscle fibers with this activity.
Be patient. The reward of proper stretching is the joy of movement which results.
Remember that stretching is a warm up and warm down exercise as well as a “real” workout for your body. Your goal is the reduction of muscular tension, not an attainment of extreme flexibility. Improper stretching can lead to injury and disillusionment with this aspect of motor fitness training.
Stretch at the beginning of a workout, just after the warm up, and also, even more importantly, after the workout when the muscles are at their warmest and most supple state. Stretching after a workout will do a tremendous amount of good toward alleviating muscle soreness and decreasing the chance of injury.
Lower body weights
(1) 1 to 2 sets of calf raises. Use a platform which allows you to make the full range of motion as you stand up on your toes and then drop your heels. Use body weight only.
(2) 2 sets of leg curls. Your hams should be 1/3 to 1/2 as strong as your quads.
(3) 2 sets of individual leg extensions.
(4) 2 sets of squats. Use a machine to isolate the gluteal muscles and prevent back injury.
Upper body weights:
(1) Begin by exhausting the larger muscles first. This includes the chest and back, and shoulders.
(2) Work both the biceps and the triceps.
Points to focus on:
(1) All weight sets should be performed focusing on excellent form and technique. You should hire a physical trainer for at least a day to assist you with developing good technique. It may also be beneficial to meet again with this person periodically to ensure good form and to measure progress.
(2) Perform repetitions with a two-count positive motion and a four-count negative motion.
(3) Breathe out on exertion.
(4) Use proper rest periods between sets.
(5) With all these exercises, slowly increase the weights over time. Be patient.
(6) Tendon strength increases at a rate roughly ten times less quickly than muscles. Don’t supercharge your muscles on an aggressive weight program only to injure your tendons.
Abdominal exercises
Focus on the quality of the exercise, not the number.
Changing up the exercises (cross-training the abdomen) is key to increasing abdominal fitness.
The abdominal muscles adapt remarkably well to a punishing workout – continue to change up your workout, even if you don’t switch exercises, switch the routine.
Balance Exercises
Balance exercises reward you with increased body awareness and can aid in your ability to negotiate tricky terrain under a heavy pack.
Distinguish between static and dynamic balance exercises. Static exercises will keep one or both feet on the ground. Dynamic exercises involve the body in motion. Both are important for the development of this motor fitness skill.
Balance is a motor skill like strength, and can be improved over time.
Include some of these into your workout. Here are some possibilities:
Static balance exercises:
(1) Walk heel-to-toe in a straight line. Then return by walking backward. Then try with your eyes shut.
(2) Stand in balance on one leg. Fold the other leg beneath you and hold it by the knee or foot.
(3) Stand in balance on one leg, then squat, and then return to the stand position.
(4) Try the same exercise, but standing on a piece of foam.
Dynamic balance exercises:
(1) Skiing, snowboarding, roller skating, ice skating are obvious and fun.
(2) Tennis, racquetball, table tennis, basketball and volleyball are all also great for balance.
(3) Clamber up and down hills, the hard way – over rough trails or “off piste” over boulders and logs, through the woods, etc. This is a particularly effective exercise.
Training Log
We have found that a training log helps to keep people on track. It keeps you honest for one; but more importantly, it is rewarding to see progress occurring over the longer term. A log book can help you recognize and then seize some motivation and satisfaction, especially if you have been training for months.
Good luck. Train hard. We look forward to seeing you on the mountain!

1st Post

2008-03-12T23:44:00.000-07:00

This blog will follow several people training, diet and life as they prepare to climb Mount Rainier in the Summer of 2008. We will be featuring work out ideas, food discussions, training climbs, and overall experiences. Check back frequently